Feb. 12th, 2008

February 12, 2008
I am happy and well. Our nomadic road show has just arrived in a town called Bahir Dar, Ethiopia.
The first two cycling days in Ethiopia were quite grueling, coming on day 5 &6 of continuous riding. The two days were definitely hardest two days of the tour. They were on very rough gravel roads, with lots of hills. It was also very hot...
On the plus side the scenery was spectacular, with some parts similar to a smaller version of the Grand Canyon. Some of the hills were so steep, and I was so drained of energy, that I simply had to walk up them. That was fine the first day, but the second day we ran into some nasty kids, who threw rocks at us, hitting several riders. Most of the kids and people we encountered were fine. Some kids however were big trouble. The riders are sitting ducks as it is very slow going up the hills, and the kids are waiting, part way up. They shout “you, You, You! Where are you go? Give me money!" and then throw rocks at the riders! On one particularly steep hill on day 2 of riding the Ethiopian hills, I was walking up a hill and was suddenly accompanied by a bunch of kids. I had already been riding for several hours, and was very drained and tired. Unfortunately, I was still some distance from the lunch truck. "WE help you!" the kids said. I said no! and tried to ignore them as I was really hot, tired, and near the end of my physical limits. Suddenly I felt a tug from the back of the bike. Quickly glancing back, I found the kids had opened my rear bag, and had my pump and spare tubes in their thieving little hands, and were about to run off with them, never to be seen again...!!! Realizing I was being robbed, I turned, yelled, and grabbed my gear just at the nick of time before they ran off... At that point the adrenalin kicked in, and I freaked...Yelling and shouting, the kids got scared and ran off. The adrenalin kept me going until lunch.
After that, we still had another 40 k to go, (to where the pavement started again), and then another 14k of riding on pavement to the hotel in Gonder.Somehow I and several other riders made it, but it was by far the toughest day of the tour, and probably one of the toughest cycling days of my life..., the views from the mountaintop hotel of Gonder and the surrounding area were spectacular, and after a long shower and a decent meal, I began to feel normal again.
We were quite a sight as we rolled in...WE were covered in road dust mixed with sweat... Our cycling jerseys were so covered in salt, sweat and dirt that they literally almost stood up by themselves...!! Thomaso.

Day 28 of the tour dÀfrique was behind me. It had been of the hardest cycling days of my life, filled with rough roads, many hills, incessant heat, and rock throwing kids...
Luckily, day 29 was a "rest day" in Gonder, Ethiopia. A chance for riders to relax, do laundry, catch up on their e mails, and see the town, which boats a famous castle and many old churches. Of course, me being me, I had other plans.I had taken a hotel room that night, but it proved to be sensory overload after nearly a month of camping. The beds were so soft I ended up sleeping on the floor...It was the first actual flush toilet I had seen or used in a month and it was weird.. I was up a 6 am, and out the door. My plan was a 2 hour "run".A fellow rider, George Craig from Australia had mentioned that the "Kilimanjaro Marathon" was coming up on March 2nd, and that we may be there in time to participate therefore explaining my need to run, and get my cycling legs used to running again. The locals cast curious glances at me as I ran by. It was Sunday, and many people were off to Sunday mass. There was no set route, just a basic route plan I devised the day before from our mountain top hotel, which featured a lookout where one could see the town of Gonder, and the surrounding countryside. I ran past the famous Gonder Castle, some famous churches, past a busy bus station and market, teeming with people, even in the early morning. A little further along, I came upon 4 groups of teenagers and younger kids playing soccer in the street. . The boys cheered and greeted me warmly as I ran by. Some gave me a high 5, and some passed me the ball so I could play with them. The last groups of soccer players were quite young, about 10-11 years old. They were playing with a makeshift ball, and were very surprised and excited to see a white guy out for a jog! The next thing I knew, one of the kids started jogging with me! WE ran together for about 3/4 of an hour, stopping once to admire the beauty of the rising sun, and the sweeping views of the surrounding farmlands in the valleys below us. When asked, my new found friend's name was "Thomaso". He was my guide, and showed me which streets, narrow alley ways and dirt paths were safe to take. Eventually we ran past his soccer friends. Again, I received a warm reception, and was passed the ball. Thomaso was so proud showing me off to his friends. Many Gonder locals gawked in puzzled amazement as we ran by together. Thomaso was a good runner, matching me stride for stride. At a mall market stall I purchased 2 large bottles of water and some bananas. Thomaso proudly carried my purchases up the step hill back to the mountain top hotel. I invited him to join me for breakfast, where my equally amazed riding mates were wondering where/ how/why I had gone for a "run" the day after a super difficult demanding cycling day. They were equally curious about my new friend. I introduced Thomaso to everyone. WE took some pictures together, placed the Ethiopian equivalent of a Canadian $20 in his hand. His eyes grew wide as saucers, and the he was gone, back to his friends and soccer.

Cycling in Ethiopia.

"Ethiopia", mention the name to someone and they immediately have images of famine, drought, and starving people. As the 3rd country we were traversing on the 2008 tour d’afrique, We riders entered Ethiopia with low expectations. At our first campsite that night, our tour director, Duncan, casually explained that Ethiopia is very mountainous, and that the total elevation gain/loss we would be riding was to be in the order of about 19,000 meters. "So let me get that straight", our knowledgeable, seasoned British rider, John Bell, said, "That’s the equivalent of going up and down Mt Everest twice, from sea level". "Yes!" was Duncan's quick reply. More than a few of the 60 riders jaws dropped, and we wondered what we were in for. Most of our concerns were completely unfounded. Yes there were hills, yes it was hot and demanding riding, but there were trees, mountains, ever more panoramic, beautiful, changing scenery, wickedly fast descents, small villages, and often, a wave and a "You! You! You! Where are you go" from out of nowhere. The people were, for the most part, very surprised and happy to see us. After the deserts of Sudan, there was and greenery. In a word, Ethiopia is beautiful. AS we move southward, the greener has increased dramatically. There are rolling hills, farmland, and green pastures, filled with healthy looking cows, goats and sheep. In the past 2 days, there has been some amazingly excellent climbs and super fast descents (Watch out for cows/goats and people! as you blast by!) on smooth paved roads. The scenery is stunning, the sun is shining, and many riders have commented the past 2 days riding on paved roads have been the most scenic, pleasant and enjoyable on the whole tour."This is what I live for" one appreciative, enthusiastic rider was heard to say. Yes, Ethiopia has had devastating droughts and famine, but the grass is green, the fields are plowed, the people are living well and appear to be hardworking and content. The kids that line the roadside as we whiz by are waving and cheering, amazed at the sight of so many brightly clothed people on fancy bikes going by. No doubt a sight that only happens once a year as the tour D'afrique "roadshow" goes by. As for me, I can't wait for more hills, more superb vistas, and the wonder of what is over the next hill or mountain range... Chris Wille reporting from Bahir Dar, Ethiopia, on the 2008 tour d'afrique.
I’m not sure if I can do the Kilimanjaro marathon or not. Timing is tight but we are trying to make it work.
I will keep you posted.
Also trying to make arrangements to climb Kilimanjaro.

Until next time, Chris..