Sunday, June 1, 2008

Tour D'Afrique- some of my best memories & moments were off the bike

"Africa is raw adventure- , You just have to release your 'safety net', put yourself out there, and you are guaranteed to begin to really experience Africa, to interact with the people. You almost can't go wrong, where ever you go. Just get out there and experience it!"

Perhaps the most important statement I heard while traveling across Africa.......

The above statement was made by Henry Gold, president & director of Tour Dafrique ltd. Henry has extensive,deep connections & experiences in Africa, having started, directed,and operated CANPAR, a Canadian NGO aid organization Africa, some 20 years ago.

The Tour D'Afrique is primarily a cycling trip across Africa. While the cycling has been challenging & great, some of my best moments & memories are of experiences that happened off the bike........

For me, it was when the riding is done for the day, & there is a mountain or hill near the campsite that many of the amazing experiences occurred. It may be a brief exchange between a startled cattle or sheep herder, way up in the hills that does it. It may be the awesome, amazing vistas one is rewarded with for making the ascent. It may be the cool, refreshing breeze at the summit on a very hot day. On the other hand, it could be the kids that ran beside you in the Kilimanjaro Marathon, Kilimanjaro suddenly looming majesticaly way abvove you, as you run past the 9 kilometer mark on Marathon day. The sweet sounds of singing from the churches along the marathon route in Moshi. Looking back down at Moshi and the surounding Tanzanian countryside from the Summit of Kilimanjaro, a few days after the marathon. Crunching through fresh snow in bitterly cold temperatures near the summit. Marvelling at the magnificent glacierfields on the summit crater.

The kids looking up from tending their goats, waving at you. The mothers and young children waving from the doorway of their modest dwelling. Bargaining for bananas at the corner fruit stand,where the locals buy their fruit. Asking some kids, in the middle of no where, which way back to the main road. You can bet they have never seen, nor will likely ever see again, a white guy running by, clad in a white dry fit top and black lycra running shorts!

Then there were the 2 guys we met , way up in the Ethiopian Hills> A fellow cyclist and I were returning to our campsite, following a failed summit bid (it was getting late and we ran out of time). In broken English, they insisted we follow them, and kept mentioning something about some letters on something. We were getting very late for dinner. Although we tried to leave them, they strongly insisted we follow them. Our thoughts turned to the possibility of us becoming a human sacrifice, but curiosity got the better of us and we followed them. Down the mountainside, across dried up corn fields, towards a large concentration of grass huts. Shortly thereafter, they pointed to a large chunk of stone sitting, partially exposed in the bank of a dry riverbed. Sure enough, there were the letters, carved into the stone tablet, perhaps hundreds or thousands of years ago. It was amazing! We took pictures and made a diagram of the symbols carved into the stone block. We were both amazed and dumbfounded by what we had just experienced. We felt a bit like Indiana Jones, except we could not read the hieroglyphic like text..

Another amazing find off the beaten track was the ancient stepped agriculture sites way up in the Ethiopian hills, and a 'lost city' type collection of over 200 grass huts-resembling a 'lost city', at the crest of a very remote and hidden ridge top, way up in the Choke mountains.

Waking across the simmering desert to a tiny "town' in Sudan, to try and buy a warm coke, and look at a heard of Camels ready to go to auction. Making a soccer ball out of old discarded inner tubes and duct tape, and watching the anticipation and delight at the crowd of kids eagerly awaiting the new creation. Visiting an ancient monastery in Ethiopia, where the monks still carry on the traditional ways, some even living in cliff side caves. Seeing the large cooking buildings where big round loaves of rich dark brown bread is made over traditional wood fired ovens, the bread being one of the staples in the monks diet.

Visiting the riverside of the famous Nile river and going in for a refreshing dip.
Walking to the famous Victoria falls, and getting absolutely drenched. At 1.7 kilometers long, a truly amazing sight, and one of the 7 natural wonders of the world.
Walking along a beach on the Red sea, or, on the other side of the continent, along the Atlantic Ocean in South Africa. Walking to the edge of the Blue Nile Gorge, or the Fish river Canyon, and peering down into the depths as the sun sets.


Often adventure and beauty were 'just across the road', as was found in the deserts of Egypt. Beautiful, golden sand and gravel hills, as far as the eye could see, dramatically changing in appearance as the sun set in the distance. To those that made the effort to take a walk away from our daily campsites were richly rewarded. Their African experience was greatly enhanced. All they had to do was step outside the the perceived safety of camp. Unfortunately, the vast majority of TDA tour cyclists rarely ventured out of camp, and missed out on a great many awesome sights and experiences.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

BIKE NOTES- Which kind is best for the TDA?

There is no perfect bike for the Tour D'afrique.

Tour organizers can change the route at will, so what works well one year may not be the hot set up the next. Facts are facts, however, and we encountered many areas where road work was ongoing, often aided by the Chinese. In 2008, over 80% of the riding was on tarmac (paved roads). Some of the tarmac was very rough. Some stretches were littered with huge, bike eating potholes for kilometers at a time. Pavement is pavement however, and you need a bike that cruises comfortably on pavement for days and weeks on end...

Expedition Riders;

Bring a bike you know, and are very comfortable with.

If you bring a mountain bike-
Pick one that is not too heavy

Pick one that has a 'lockout' feature for the front suspension fork, if yours has front shocks.
Bring a selection of good quality tires, from big wide knobby off road tires to a mid range durable on/off road tire to free rolling slicks.


Consider bringing a 'Cyclocross' type bike, which incorporates a wide range of gears on a 'road bike' type frame, but accepts a very wide range of tires for the rough off road sections- this makes for a good all-around bike. You won't have as much 'fun' on the off road sections as the mountain bikers, but you will be far more efficient and miles ahead, with less energy expended, on the pavement- faster, more comfortable,and more efficient.

The above bike is critical if you are a racer.
One racer utilized a very light,fast carbon fiber mountain bike, with front suspension on the 2008 tour.
While he was a gifted rider and very successful in the race (second place overall), his frame did break, necessitating the shipment in of a new frame3/4 off the way through the tour.

The prefer ed bike for overall use is the Specialized brand Cyclocross bike. This is the bike that has won first place in the tour 2 years running. It is a proven design. Light and strong.
Consider this bike first and foremost.

Only bring a mountain bike if you are used to that type of bike and more comfortable on it.
Remember, you will be on your bike for 4 to 7 or 8 hours, daily, depending on how fast you ride, and how many coke stops you take. So you bike must be comfortable, and in excellent working condition.

TIRES

Cyclocross bikes; one set of strong, wide off road tires
two sets of 700 x 28 tough, puncture resistant tires for all conditions
one set 700 x 23 schwalbe stelvio plus tires for smooth tarmac roads

bring tubes for each size, as well as a well stocked patch kit

The common consensus among 2008 TDA riders is that the Schwalbe brand of tires stood up best, lasted the longest, with the least amount of punctures.

Be very careful riding in and out of campsites/lunch stops There are loads of thorns and other spiky vegetation that easily attaches to the rubber of bike tires & causes flats galore, and frustrated riders.

Consider carrying your bike in/out of camp sites.
CHECK your tires for thorns once you get your bike to the road, BEFORE you start riding.
KEEP your tires inflated to the proper recommended pressures.

KEEP your chain clean and lubed, clean your bike daily and check for wear/tear and loose components.

BRING a camel back, but rear racks and backpacks are unnecessary, add extra weight, and often break or rattle loose.

HAVE a great ride, and enjoy the experience of a lifetime!

For those contenplating riding in future Tour D'Afriques

Cycling across Africa is an amazing, challenging adventure. Your body, mind & spirit will be put to the test in ways you can not imagine. The rewards are many for those who commit. You will be a better person for the experience. You will see many unique, wonderful, amazing things daily that very few people ever see. But, alas, the Tour d'Afrique is not for everybody.

For those signed up or contemplating taking up the challenge;

YOU WILL HAVE AN AWESOME TIME, IF-

You approach each day with an open mind, ready for each new experience, be it a good or bad one.

You like adventure for adventures sake, and look forward to each days ride, no matter what the distance, terrain or weather conditions.

You are prepared to set up, pull down, and sleep in your tent on all types of ground, in all types of weather conditions, for 120 days straight.

You don't mind going a week or more without a shower (even then its usually a cold one),
even though you sweat buckets each day. (A water bottle shower and baby wipes do the trick)

You don't get flustered when you are setting up your tent in an Ethiopian cow pasture,and suddenly find yourself surrounded by 60 inquisitive, staring children, each one armed with
armed with a long wooden staff.

You are an experienced to hardcore on or off road cyclist, or a seasoned adventure traveller.

You don't expect the service, amenities, or basics to be anything like they are in the western world. You realize and understand that Africa moves to a different beat.

You are happy to overjoyed when you find a shack that sells warm cokes on a very hot day.

You get along well with people, and don't mind if your tent is right next to the other 60 tents,
just hoping that the person next to you doesn't snore.

You realize how truly lucky you are to be in Africa.

You realize how truly lucky you are to ride in the most amazing/wonderful, challenging bike race/expedition in the world.


Don't expect a cushy, glamorous overland truck ride across the continent.

If you are not prepared to ride each day *(barring illness or injury), don't go.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

VICTORIA IRONMAN TAKES 3RD PLACE IN WORLDS TOUGHEST BIKE RACE

Cape Town, South Africa


Amid the fanfare of a full brass band and cheering well wishers, the 2008 Tour D'afrique finished in style on Saturday at the trendy waterfront district of Cape Town. Leading the peloton were the top 3 men's race winners, including local businessman, Chris Wille, who cycled his way to Third place, overall.

"It's the worlds longest and toughest bike race. I am honored and grateful to have been able to ride/race the whole way. To take 3rd place, overall, against some very tough competitors was very sweet!" Chris said. "What an experience; over 3 hundred hours of racing, contested over 85 stages, more than 10,400 kilometers, nine countries, crossing the African continent, from top to bottom- simply an amazing, wonderful experience. Truly the opportunity of a lifetime!" He added. " It's the best placing by a Canadian in quite some time."

Neither the cold temperatures or drizzle could keep the huge smiles off the finishers faces.
It was a festive, colorful atmosphere at the waterfront amphitheater. "WE are very proud of all our race participants and expedition riders" said Tour d'afrique owner and founder, Henry Gold. "These guys gave it their all, day after day, under some very trying conditions, starting at the Great Pyramids in Cairo on January 12th."

Post race celebrations to follow, and perhaps a well deserved rest!

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

FOUR DAYS TO CAPE TOWN

To all friends,family and interested persons;
Contrary to my hopes, computers and internet have been in scarce supply since leaving Windhoek,Namibia.

We are currently 4 riding days away from Capetown.

I have many stories & pictures to share and post.

Between racing and the lack of computers/internet, all further posts will have to wait until cape town.

In brief; I will be in 3rd place overall for the whole race, best ever finish by a canadian in quite some time.

We have (to date) cycled over 10,000kilometers.

Our total elevation gain for the tour (total meters climbed) is over 60,000meters, or 7.5 times up Mt Everest, starting from sea level.!!

We have cycled through 9 countries, and flown over 1 (kenya)

The trip has been awesome. I am truely grateful for the opportunity.

For more info about end of tour ceremonies/celebrations/awards, please refer to the tda website...

Rumour has it many ambassadors from various countries will be in attendance.......

Please be patient, much more to follow in the days ahead.

Thanks for your interest, Chris Wille in South Africa, Near Lamberts Bay

Saturday, April 26, 2008

OF BIKE DONATIONS AND COOL KALAHARI NIGHTS

Saturday, April 26th;

The 3rd in a series of very successful bicycle donations in Africa was held today in Windhoek, Namibia. Billed as "Chris Wille's bike donation", this event featured the donation of 68 bicycles to 3 separate, very deserving recipients, ranging from a refugee camp located in Namibia, which houses thousands of refuges from other countries, to a local tuberculosis aid society, to a youth at risk group. The donations were well received, and very much needed. speeches were made by representatives from the TDA, the recipient organizations, and myself. It is humbling to hear how something as simple as a bicycle can and does change people's lives for the better.
a huge thank you to family and friends who kindly made donations to the tune of $6800.00

The donation ceremony was made possible by the hard work of one Michael Linke, an amazing person who has done wonders for the distribution of bikes, the training of local people in each local area to service and repair the bikes, a outstanding bicycle ambulance building and distribution program and a host of other good things. Michael is the founder of BEN, Namibia.
BEN stands for bicycle empowerment network. Please Google BEN, and BEN, Namibia, for more info on the amazing projects this group has on the go.

Pictures of the donation will be posted as soon as they are available...

As for the Tour....We have just recently arrived in Windhoek, Namibia. This signals the end of the latest section, called the Elephant highway. A few lucky riders saw elephants along this section, but all the racers saw was horses, goats, sheep, cows, and lots and lots of Armoured crickets...I was lucky to ride well and stay relatively healthy (How healthy can one really be riding over 160 kilometers (one hundred miles) at high speed day after day?) , and placed second overall in this section. I also am very fortunate to retain 3rd place overall in the whole race, the best placing by a Canadian in quite some time...

Nights have been cold in the Kalahari, prompting riders to bundle up in the morning, something we have not had to do sine crossing the Sahara in Sudan. Luckily, the temperatures warm up quickly after the sun has been up for a while. This makes for very pleasant cycling temperatures after the initial morning chill. On a recent day when we had to cover 207 kilometres, riders were horrified to find ice on their saddles. Many began to seriously debate the global warming theory at that point...

One section (the diamond coast), about 2,000 kilometers, and less than 2 weeks separate us from our arrival in Cape town, and the end of our remarkable 4 month journey across the African Continent. Its' been great.....More stories and pictures to follow...

Chris Wille in Windhoek, Namibia.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

A tale of Armoured crickets,yellow goo, and bike donations

Armoured crickets? What next...? They are all over the A-3 Botswana highway we have been travelling. Big, black, six legs, ugly! Since the city of Maun, Botswana these icky creatures crawl out and converge on the tarmac by the millions. Most riders try and avoid running over them. Some sadistic cyclists, however have made it a sport of running over as many as they can. A sickening crunch sound ensues, and then a splatter of yellow goo all over their tire and front down tube- sick!! It's amazing how many of these creatures there are per kilometer..very creepy! 19 days left on the tour, and we wonder what is next!!

The swirling winds and cool temperatures we have experienced so far across the vast Kalahari have done little to slow the racer peloton down as we travel west towards Namibia. We will arrive in Windhoek, Namibia in 3 days. There, on Saturday, April 26Th, a large bike donation will take place. These bikes are badly needed by african aids healthcare workers, and represent the total number bikes that I have fund raised for. Thank you to all that have donated, and to those that may wish to donate; please contact the TDA office in Toronto via phone or e mail, and mention my name.

Cheers for now, Chris Wille ( stage winner today!) on the 2008 TDA.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Across the Kalahari

Rested and ready! Tda riders enjoyed a day off in Maun, Botswana on Sunday. A popular activity on the day was taking a scenic flight over the famous Okavango delta (very cool, lots of Giraffes, elephants, hippo's, loads of other animals, and vast swampy areas and water channels). other riders booked canoe trips in the delta, while others just relaxed by the pool, caught up on laundry, or caught up on eating and drinking...
Tomorrow our travelling road show heads out across the Kalahari desert. % days of riding will take across the desert, out of Botswana, into Namibia, and to the cosmopolitan town of Windhoek.
There we will be able to sample the German style food...should be interesting..wiener schnitzel unt sauerkraut anyone?

Our stay in Maun has been friendly and relaxed. Arriving a day early has allowed for an extra days rest, which will hopefully pay dividends down the road...

we have survived the Sahara in Egypt & Sudan. Experiencing the Kalahari will be interesting. Rumor has it there will be headwinds. No problem; we have had headwinds since Sudan, so we are quite used to them. The weather has been beautiful; hot and sunny every day, with the nights cool enough for sleeping. I will take that any day, accompanied by some great days riding, as opposed to snow and cold temperatures in Victoria......Burrrrrr!

Next entry will likely be from Windhoek, Namibia, our 9th country in Africa..

Cheers, Chris wille in Maun, Botswana.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

'Survivor Botswana' - 320 kilometers in one day

Question; You've just raced 170 kilometers on rough, hot tarmac across the endless, flat Botswana Savannah. Upon conclusion of the strength zapping ride, you arrive quite literally, in the middle of nowhere. Your support crew supplies you with 2 small bottles of water, an apple, and an orange, then leaves. So there you are, suddenly finding yourself forced to ration your meager supplies. The mid days sun is hot, searing. Shade is in short supply, and what there is is covered in thorns. Thorn trees, thorns on the ground. The situation is grim, nearly intolerable.

What do you do??

Our support trucks, our lifeline, laden with food, supplies, and all our personal gear, are nowhere to be seen. TDA support staff have no idea when or if the trucks will arrive. We could literally sit around for hours,waiting, and even then, have no assurance the trucks will show up. They are stuck back in Nata, the last town, 170 kilometers away, with mechanical breakdown issues.

We hunker down, take stock of our supplies, and begin the waiting game.
In a flash, things closely resemble a scene out of 'Survivor.'

Options are weighed;
A) Stay put, wait it out, leaving your destiny and comfort completely out of your control, or
B) A radical plan, get back on the bike, and ride a further 150 kilometers to the next town, there by putting control of your future back in your hands. You would be assured a warm meal, a warm shower, shelter and a nice bed.

The only thing holding us back was the lack of food and water. Time was ticking on. Soon it would be impossible to reach town before dark.

So there you are... Do you go for it, or stay put???

For us, the answer came with the arrival of the lunch truck, and accompanying food and water.
Quickly four racers (Joss Kaal, Bernd Prorok, Ed Din, and myself) re hydrated, grabbed some energy bars, and headed back out on the road, our fate now firmly in our hands.

Much to our dismay, the famed Botswana tailwinds failed to materialize. Each rider took his turn at the front, taking a pull for 2-3 kilometers. We averaged approx 35kph, and stopped only twice. Once at 70 kilometers for a 5 min 1/2 way break, and once at a police checkpoint.

The endless Botswana Savannah rolled by. All four riders worked as one, united by a common goal. We were riding the 'Elephant highway', but the only animals we encountered were cows, goats, sheep & donkeys. We played cowboy while dodging herds of cattle crossing the road.

At long last, four weary riders pulled into the town of Maun, 320 kilometers under their tired legs. The food & drink never tasted better. We tucked into round after round of a scrumptious buffet dinner at a nice hotel. While we were freshly showered, we were still clad in our cycling attire. We toasted our successful ride, certain we had made the right decision.

Sleep came fast as our weary bodies were finally able to rest. we now have 2 full rest days ahead of us before heading back out on the road. Tomorrow we will explore the wonders of the Okavango delta. But that's another story...

# of us set personal total mileage records for a one day ride.. It's amazing what the human body an do..it's certainly possible to ride further in a day, but bear inmind the road surface was rough, potholed,there were little or no tailwinds, and we sat around for well over an hour in the heat, waiting for any of the TDA trucks. Chris Wille in Maun, Botswana




























The only

Monday, April 14, 2008

tour pictures













Here are a few tour pics. The computers are very slow here so it has been very difficult to download anything!

Victoria Falls; adventure center of Zambia

April 14Th/2008

Today riders are enjoying the last of 2 days rest at Victoria Falls.
The Falls are an amazing sight, both from the air, and from the ground.

Quick facts;
Victoria Falls is one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. The entire area is both a national park, and a world heritage site. The falls are 1.7 kilometers long. The scope and size can only fully be seen and appreciated from the air. Cubic feet per second of water actually pouring over the 333foot/100meter drop is staggering, especially during the recent rainy period. It is simply a jaw dropping spectacle from both the ground and in the air. I was fortunate to take a helicopter flight through the gorge, and over the falls, then got completely drenched by the falls spray when walking out onto a knife edged ridge near the eastern cataract.

It was a thrill to be at such a world renowned location.
Viewing the falls , however, is only a small part of the activities available here.

fellow TDA riders went bungee jumping (3rd highest drop in the world), abseiling, river rafting, river cruising, on microlight flights,canoeing, jogging, and a host of other activities. Many of us availed ourselves to the all you can eat breakfast and dinner buffets at some very swanky local hotels, knowing full well that we will burn of the calories quickly in the upcoming long stages in Botswana...

Tomorrow the tour resumes. It will be our last day in Zambia. This country has proven to be very beautiful, challenging (long stages, day after day), warm and hospitable. It has also proven to be a land of contrasts with basic grass & mud huts and subsistence farming in the countrysides, to the land of plenty and excess in such places as Lusaka and Livingstone/Victoria Falls.

The 2 days off was very necessary. Most riders are relatively weak, have somewhat compromised immune systems, and have lost quite a bit of weight over the course of the tour.
Personally I am thankful to be healthy, happy, strong, and ready for the next section of the tour, called "Elephant Highway".

I am also thankful to be in 3rd place in the race overall, and also 3rd in the last section entitled "the Zambezi Zone".

27 days/22 riding days and we will be in Cape Town (May 10Th)

It's been an awesome adventure.........

Stay tuned for more posts when time and working computers can be found....

Meanwhile it's back on the road again...

Chris Wille in Livingstone, Victoria Falls, Zambia.

175 kilometers in someone else's shoes!

Background;
games and pranks are part of the 2008 TDA tour.
from tent door zippers being mysteriously zip tied shut in the night, to mysterious panties turning up in certain peoples bags, pranks are part of the tour.
Was I a victim of chance or willful "dirty tricks"? Perhaps i will never know...

The weather was sunny and warm, the road smooth, mildly undulating, welcoming. All in all, a perfect day for cycling and racing Zambia. We riders quickly consumed our breakfasts, packed up our tents,& made final preparations for the days race stage & ride.

My bike was set. I was feeling strong, confident on having a good performance on the day. All that was left to do was to trade my camp shoes for cycling shoes & head for the start line with my fellow racers. I reached for my cycling shoes, which I always left in the truck. Much to my dismay, there was only one shoe, where there had been 2 the day before.

A frantic search of the truck proved fruitless and yielded no second shoe. I was desperate! My fellow racers and expedition riders were by then all on the road, beginning the day's 175kilometer ride. Meanwhile, I was stuck at the truck with only one shoe! In the quick, efficient manner that is his nature, Duncan, the TDA tour leader, magically produced a pair of cycling shoes that looked like they just might work. they were a couple of sizes too small, but just fit when put on with no socks.

In a flash, I was set, on the road, & pedalling in the fastest, most efficient manner possible. Like a caged animal set loose, it felt great to be free, out on the road again. Before long i started passing fellow tour riders. When one starts from the very back, the motivation to do well is very strong. I used this motivation to keep my spirits and speed up throughout the day. No problem- i thought. Even though I was not part of the energy saving peloton, I knew I could perform well.

The days ride was like an individual 175 kilometer time trial. This in turn , was similar to the cycling stage of an iron man triathlon, something I was quite familiar with. Much to my surprise & pleasure, the cycling shoes worked. at the conclusion of the day's stage, I had only lost 4 minutes to the top 2 riders, and finished in a solid 3rd place. Not bad for a 175 kilometer in someone Else's' shoes!

As for the missing shoe... it turned up later, jammed behind some peoples red boxes on the bottom shelf. Weather it ended up there by accident or by the the hand of a fellow rider/racer trying to raise havoc or get me off my game is unclear.. either scenario is possible..

Despite my initial problems, it was fun and challenging riding and racing in someone Else's shoes!
The adrenaline was coursing through my veins.
Another day in the life of the 2008 TDA.

Chris Wille in Livingstone, Victoria Falls , Zambia.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Africa-'All other places are tame'

The following was written in 1910 by Mary Gaunt.
I found it still quite pertinent today, and copied it down to share with my blog readers. It is framed and sits in a prominent spot at the restaurant/bar at Chitimba Beach Lodge, Malawi.



Africa- 'all other places are tame'


The fascination Africa has always held for those who have visited her shores has hitherto been the fascination of Mistress, never of the wife.

She held out no lure,for she was no courtesan. A man came to her in his eager youth, asking, praying that she would give him that which should make life good, and she trusted and opened her arms.

What she had to give she gave freely, generously, and there was no stint, no lack. And he took. Her charm he counted on as a matter of course, her tenderness was hid due, her passion his pleasure, but the fascination he barely admitted could not keep him.

Though she had given all, she had no rights and, when other desires called he left her, left her with words of pity that were an injury, of regret that were an insult.

But all this is changing.

Africa holds. The man who has known Africa longs for her.

In the sordid city street she remembers the might and loneliness of her forests, by the rippling brook he remembers the wide rivers rushing tumultuous from the lakes, in the night when on the roof the rain's splashing drearily he remembers the mellow tropical nights, the sky of velvet far away, the stars like points of gold, the warm moonlight that with its deeper shadows made a fairer world.

Even the languor and the heat he longs for, the white surf on yellow sand of the beaches, the thick jungle growth gently matted, rankly luxuriant, pulsating with the irrepressible life of the tropics.

All other places.... are tame

Mary Gaunt,

Sierra Leone, 1910

Back Online

Hey loyal readers- I'm still alive, and racing fine as the 2008 Tour Dafrique enters it's final month.

Since my last post we have cycled across Tanzania, on rough roads and past villages where they rarely see a white person, let alone 62 crazy people on bicycles. Each community we passed through received a welcome economic benefit as cycling, especially in these humid conditions creates a powerful, insatiable appetite and thirst. The scenery has been very lush, green and beautiful. We followed the Masai steppe across Tanzania, which proved to be quite hilly. Once we reached the Town of Iringa (at Easter) we traded our off road knobby tires for smooth, fast road tires. Our behinds enjoyed the smoother roads. We seemed to blast through Tanzania quite quickly. The last days ride in that country was stunning . It featured smooth, fast roads, hills ,quick descents, banana, coffee and tea plantations, and a view of the massive lake Malawi in the distance.

Malawi was very hot and humid. We enjoyed a day off at Chatimba beach, and swam in the warm lake waters. Following that, it was back on the road, where we faced 2 days of drenching rains, which cooled us as we climbed the steep road up the escarpment and out of the rift valley.
We came across actual logging operations in the highlands of Malawi. Daily the road was challenging, twisting, turning and winding its way across the land. In Malawi we passed many corn and tobacco plantations. The people were welcoming and super friendly. In Lilongwe the TDA held the second of four bicycle donations, with over 50 bikes being donated to various health care organizations. Hundreds of people die each day from the ravages of Malaria and aids, so the bikes are definitely essential in helping the health care workers get out in the field and do their work. Thanks very much to all who have donated to my bike donation fund. To those that still wish to donate, please contact the TDA office in Toronto.

We were through/across Malawi in 8 days. Currently, we are in Lusaka, Zambia. Riders have gone into sensory overload as , for the first time since Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, we find ourselves in a modern city, with modern grocery stores and conveniences. We wasted little time at eating ethic available, and marvelled at the selections on the grocery store shelves. After being content with warm coke and a few stale biscuits at tiny village stores, this was truly overload!

The pace /mileage of our rides is starting to ratchet upward. last week we had a 197 kilometer day over rough, hilly roads. it was part of a 5 day stretch where we rode over 700 kilometers, all over hilly , hot roads, which made for some demanding riding. Tomorrow we begin a 3 day ride to Livingstone and the world famous Victoria falls, where we will have 2 days off. The 3 days to get there , however, are all reputed to be about 165 kilometres. After that, we enter Botswana, land of flat roads and elephants. There our mileage will increase to 6 days of almost 200 kilometers each. The tour is 3/4ths done. One more month and it's all over. We arrive in Capetown on may 10th. Many riders have bittersweet feelings about this, and prefer to simply enjoy each day and each ride.

On the racing front, the top 3 racers have been very consistent since Egypt.
Joss Kaal, ex semi-pro danish racer, and Bernd Prorok, nationally ranked Austrian mountain bike racer are 1-2 most days, with myself usually taking 3 spot. We are some 25-30 hours ahead of the 4 place racer. On rare occasions Bernd has taken a stage win. I have been fortunate enough to take 2 wins. For the most part, however, Jos and bernd are much better riders than myself, and much younger as well. I just do my best and ride as well as i can each day. Every day is a new adventure on the 2008 tour dafrique!

I will try to update my blog more often, but racing and refueling take top priority on the world's toughest bike race..

Cheers to all from Lusaka, Zambia.

Friday, March 14, 2008

The luckiest man in Africa

Background; THe 2008 version of the Tour d'afrique paused for 16 days starting March !, 2008.

THis time wouuld have seen riders cross Kenya. Unfortunatly, due to ongoing political turmoil & instability, the tour director's made a decision in mid febuary to cancel the Kenyan section, and have the riders take 16 days off cycling. Some riders affectionatly refered to this time as "spring break".

Her now is a copy of a press release on what I did with this time off, and why I consider myself to be the luckiest man in Africa...

It's amazing how some opportunities present themselves, when a conflict such as the Kenyan political crisis occurs..


Press release; march 10th/2008

IRONMAN 'RESTS' BY RUNNING MARATHON, CLIMBING KILIMANJARO

2008 tour d'afrique rider/racer Chris Wille has just returned from the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, which he reached a scant 6 days after successfully completingthe Kilimanjaro Maraton in Moshi, Sunday, March 2nd.

"I'm the luckiest guy in Africa" said Chris "what an amazing opportunity- running a full marathon in Africa, closely followed by a successful climb to the 'roof' of Africa, the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro, rising over 3 miles above the plains below. At 5,896 meters (19,360 feet), it is well over 1,800 meters (4,ooo feet) higher than any other mountain i have ever climbed, which is significant". He added.

AS for the marathon, the atmophere was great, the course very challenging (hot & humid in town, where the first 14 kim's were run, followed by an unrelenting long hilly climb up to the coffee plantations at 5,000', then back down the steep hill to the finish at Moshi Stadium.).

Over 1,500 people took part in the maraton, 1/2 maraton & 5k run, with 300 going the full marathon distance. Top time in the marathon was 2;15 by a tanzanian, who shattered the course record by 3 minutes. "Personally, I was only running to finish", said Chris. "After cycling & racing over 4,300 kilometers acroos Egypt, Sudan, and Ethiopia (with it's many mountains), I wasn't sur how my legs would hold out, or if I could run. THe last time I seriously ran was at the Royal victoria Marathon last october. Other than that, I did virtually no training as my focus had shifted to the rigors & demands of cycling & racing 12,000 kilometers across the African continent in 4 months".

How did he do? "Great" said Chris "THe legs felt good after about 10kms, and 4;20 is a respectable time for such a hot, hilly, humid course,with no run training. I just feel very fortunate I was able to participate!"

Chris ran the marathon with fellow tda rider Craig George. In order to even get to the marathon start line, the duo endured a 14 hour van dide from Moyale, Ethiopia, to Addis Abbaba, then a lonkg wait at the airport, followed by a 2.5 hour flight over Kenya to Kilimanjaro airport,& a 3/4 hour taxi ride from the airport to Moshi, Tanzania. "We arrived shortly before registration closed on saturday, march !st, then got up very early the next morning and ran the marathon the next morning! (the marathon started at 6;30 am!)."

So what's next on the ajenda for Chris, who is currently in 2nd place overall amonst the racers on the 2008 tda?

"Believe it or not, I'm going to (try)) and relax, and go on a 3 day safari" said the softspoken 4 time ironman. Relax? We'll see....

The riding & racing resumes March !6th, as the group heads across Tanzania....

Monday, March 3, 2008

Ethiopia; cycling paradise, at a price.....

Much to everyone's surprise, cycling in Ethiopia on the 2008 tour dafrique has been breathtakingly beautiful, physically challenging, and, all in all very rewarding.We have cycled for days on smooth, good paved countryside & mountain roads at an elevation of 2000 to 3,100 meters. There are long uphill climbs,rolling hills, and raw, superfast, twisting descents, littered with wrecked vehicles that missed the hairpin turns. On such descents, it is not uncommon for us to reach (controlled) speeds of 80 to 100kph.

Warm,sunny skies welcome us each day, yet at this altitude, nights are cool, which is good for sleeping. All this 'cycling in paradise' does, however,come at a price...There are 75 milion people in Ethiopia, and about 45 million are children under the age of 10!
On the 2008 tour dafrique, in Ethiopia, our intrepid group has been; shouted/yelled at, almost constantly asked for money, stoned, whipped in the butt with sticks, leaving painfull welts,
peed on, fondled, robbed, bullied, taunted, laughed at, and generally made to feel ill at ease. Most every rider has had many unavoidable near misses with cows, donkeys, goats, sheep, & people, who stand in the middle of the road in small towns, seeming totally oblivious to the traffic on the road.They cross the street at will, never looking up to see if it is safe to cross. Stray animals on the road (very common), often mixed in with the people, add significantly to the risk of a crash at any second. All this kaos makes for a very nervous time as we cycle through the many small towns and villages in rural ethiopia. Even at the front of the pack, we racers are like magnets as we traverse the countrysides. The kids come seemingly out of nowhere, race to the roadside as we zipp past, and shout; you! you! you!, Give me money!!! or you! you! you! where are you go? at first its fun, but the novelty quickly wears off after the 700th kid, and you're only an hour into your days ride. The slower riders at the back of the pack have it the worst, as they cannot cycle faster than the kids can run, so the harrasment goes on and on..

Each of us has a big target on us called 'opportunity'. Many of the children & people we pass each day cheer, wave, and are excited and happy to see us. Even the most jaded of us have a soft spot in our hearts, and fond memories of the very cute, super excited young children that greet us excitedly with a big smile and a wave. Ultimatly, those are the memories that will prevail. As one fellow cyclist put it "they (the kids) can't come to the rest of the world, so that's their way of making sure they are noticed when the world comes to them."They are just looking for some aknowledgement, a hello, a wave, a greeting- some connection with you, and through you, to the outside world." Prehaps this rider was correct- she rarely ever got stoned or hassled...

Ethiopa is a cycling paradise. If you go, however, be prepared! all this cycling fun & beauty comes at a price. Those willing to pay the price reap the greatest rewards while cycling in Ethiopia.
Enjoy! Chris Wille on the 2008 tda


Meet the 'Wolf Pack'

With precision and grace, the 'Wolf Pack" approaches their next unsuspecting victim. "Good Morning" they say as they wizz past, in a blurr, pressing ever onward, in search of their next victim, and ultimatly, the front of the pack, the open road, and the finish line.

Respectfully given the name by a 2008 tda expedition rider, the 'Wolf Pack" is made up of 5 strong riders, all competing in the racing category of the 08 tda. Acroos Egypt & Sudan, we always started last in our 62 rider group.Through an efficient pace line riding, we share the work of leading, which keeps the group's overall speed high. It was just a matter of time before we zipped past the other riders each day. The others never knew exactly when we were comming, they just knew we would come.

Cycling within the wolfpack has been fast & fun. We all found our cycling much improved after traversing 2 countries and sharing the workload. Yes it was fun passing the other riders each day. It is also nice to work our way through the day's ride quickly, so we can relax, set up camp, and enjoy our new surroundings as much as possible, before the next day's ride.

Unluckily, one wolfpack member, Janet Alexander, has just left us at the end of the Ethiopian section. Best Wishes, Janet!, nice riding with you.!

The Wolf Pack.

Wolf Pack members; Jos kaal, Bernd Prorok, Chris Wille, Bent Nielsen, Janet Alexander.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Section 2 complete, Canadian racer in 3rd place

February 18. 2008

For the first time in the 6 year history of the Tour d'afrique, a Canadian racer is amongst the top 3 racers. Chris Wille is happy, healthy, and is riding strong. A challenging week long, mountainous route through Ehtiopia has just been completed. Riders are taking a well deserved 2 day rest in Addis Abba, the capital of Ethiopia. "Ethiopia has proven to be amazingly beautiful. Warm temperatures, sunny skys, challenging ascents, wickedly fast, winding descents, smooth roads. It truely is a rider's paradise" Chris said."the people are warm and friendly, often dropping whatever they are doing to cheer and wave as we racer's go whipping by in our compact peloton. At times I feel like i"m a racer in the tour de france," he added.
I'm grateful for the experience, and look forward to each day, each stage, each challenge."He said. a difficult, challenging 1,500km section, named :'the gorge' has just been completed. Chris finshed this section in 3rd place, and is also in 3 rd place overall on the tour. amongst the challenges on this section were the Choke mountains, which saw the riders riding several stages at 2,500 + meters, with a max altitude of 3,100 meters. "you can really feel the altitude, Chris said, especially those of us that live near sea level!" Some riders fared better than others, many loosing their efi (every freaking inch) riding status in this difficult but beautiful section. The biggest highlight for most riders was riding the impressive, daunting "Blue Nile gorge". That day we rode 40kms from our campsite, then down a steep, switchbacking 20km downhill plunge to the bottom of the 3,500 foot gorge, where a 22 km, 3,500' time trial climb started to the top of the rim. "the ride down was sweet and fast", said Chris, who arrived at the bottom in 26 min, with a big grin on his face. " It was time to go to work on the climb up", he added. Chris finished the climb in 1 hr, 59 min, good for 3rd place in the time trial. "everyone who completed that stage was a winner!", top riders were cheering and shouting encouragement to fellow riders as they completed the last part of the steep ascent."I have a great respect and admration to all who took up the challenge' Chris said, "especially Gavin Greig, who, at 67, is the elder statesman and most senior rider on the tour." Stunning views and an awesome sunset caped a most wonderful day in the gorge. 3,200km's done, 9,000 to go. Riders have 2 well deserved days off in addis Abba Ethiopia before riding and racing continue...

Chris Wille on the 2008 tour dafrique.,

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Feb. 12th, 2008

February 12, 2008
I am happy and well. Our nomadic road show has just arrived in a town called Bahir Dar, Ethiopia.
The first two cycling days in Ethiopia were quite grueling, coming on day 5 &6 of continuous riding. The two days were definitely hardest two days of the tour. They were on very rough gravel roads, with lots of hills. It was also very hot...
On the plus side the scenery was spectacular, with some parts similar to a smaller version of the Grand Canyon. Some of the hills were so steep, and I was so drained of energy, that I simply had to walk up them. That was fine the first day, but the second day we ran into some nasty kids, who threw rocks at us, hitting several riders. Most of the kids and people we encountered were fine. Some kids however were big trouble. The riders are sitting ducks as it is very slow going up the hills, and the kids are waiting, part way up. They shout “you, You, You! Where are you go? Give me money!" and then throw rocks at the riders! On one particularly steep hill on day 2 of riding the Ethiopian hills, I was walking up a hill and was suddenly accompanied by a bunch of kids. I had already been riding for several hours, and was very drained and tired. Unfortunately, I was still some distance from the lunch truck. "WE help you!" the kids said. I said no! and tried to ignore them as I was really hot, tired, and near the end of my physical limits. Suddenly I felt a tug from the back of the bike. Quickly glancing back, I found the kids had opened my rear bag, and had my pump and spare tubes in their thieving little hands, and were about to run off with them, never to be seen again...!!! Realizing I was being robbed, I turned, yelled, and grabbed my gear just at the nick of time before they ran off... At that point the adrenalin kicked in, and I freaked...Yelling and shouting, the kids got scared and ran off. The adrenalin kept me going until lunch.
After that, we still had another 40 k to go, (to where the pavement started again), and then another 14k of riding on pavement to the hotel in Gonder.Somehow I and several other riders made it, but it was by far the toughest day of the tour, and probably one of the toughest cycling days of my life..., the views from the mountaintop hotel of Gonder and the surrounding area were spectacular, and after a long shower and a decent meal, I began to feel normal again.
We were quite a sight as we rolled in...WE were covered in road dust mixed with sweat... Our cycling jerseys were so covered in salt, sweat and dirt that they literally almost stood up by themselves...!! Thomaso.

Day 28 of the tour dÀfrique was behind me. It had been of the hardest cycling days of my life, filled with rough roads, many hills, incessant heat, and rock throwing kids...
Luckily, day 29 was a "rest day" in Gonder, Ethiopia. A chance for riders to relax, do laundry, catch up on their e mails, and see the town, which boats a famous castle and many old churches. Of course, me being me, I had other plans.I had taken a hotel room that night, but it proved to be sensory overload after nearly a month of camping. The beds were so soft I ended up sleeping on the floor...It was the first actual flush toilet I had seen or used in a month and it was weird.. I was up a 6 am, and out the door. My plan was a 2 hour "run".A fellow rider, George Craig from Australia had mentioned that the "Kilimanjaro Marathon" was coming up on March 2nd, and that we may be there in time to participate therefore explaining my need to run, and get my cycling legs used to running again. The locals cast curious glances at me as I ran by. It was Sunday, and many people were off to Sunday mass. There was no set route, just a basic route plan I devised the day before from our mountain top hotel, which featured a lookout where one could see the town of Gonder, and the surrounding countryside. I ran past the famous Gonder Castle, some famous churches, past a busy bus station and market, teeming with people, even in the early morning. A little further along, I came upon 4 groups of teenagers and younger kids playing soccer in the street. . The boys cheered and greeted me warmly as I ran by. Some gave me a high 5, and some passed me the ball so I could play with them. The last groups of soccer players were quite young, about 10-11 years old. They were playing with a makeshift ball, and were very surprised and excited to see a white guy out for a jog! The next thing I knew, one of the kids started jogging with me! WE ran together for about 3/4 of an hour, stopping once to admire the beauty of the rising sun, and the sweeping views of the surrounding farmlands in the valleys below us. When asked, my new found friend's name was "Thomaso". He was my guide, and showed me which streets, narrow alley ways and dirt paths were safe to take. Eventually we ran past his soccer friends. Again, I received a warm reception, and was passed the ball. Thomaso was so proud showing me off to his friends. Many Gonder locals gawked in puzzled amazement as we ran by together. Thomaso was a good runner, matching me stride for stride. At a mall market stall I purchased 2 large bottles of water and some bananas. Thomaso proudly carried my purchases up the step hill back to the mountain top hotel. I invited him to join me for breakfast, where my equally amazed riding mates were wondering where/ how/why I had gone for a "run" the day after a super difficult demanding cycling day. They were equally curious about my new friend. I introduced Thomaso to everyone. WE took some pictures together, placed the Ethiopian equivalent of a Canadian $20 in his hand. His eyes grew wide as saucers, and the he was gone, back to his friends and soccer.

Cycling in Ethiopia.

"Ethiopia", mention the name to someone and they immediately have images of famine, drought, and starving people. As the 3rd country we were traversing on the 2008 tour d’afrique, We riders entered Ethiopia with low expectations. At our first campsite that night, our tour director, Duncan, casually explained that Ethiopia is very mountainous, and that the total elevation gain/loss we would be riding was to be in the order of about 19,000 meters. "So let me get that straight", our knowledgeable, seasoned British rider, John Bell, said, "That’s the equivalent of going up and down Mt Everest twice, from sea level". "Yes!" was Duncan's quick reply. More than a few of the 60 riders jaws dropped, and we wondered what we were in for. Most of our concerns were completely unfounded. Yes there were hills, yes it was hot and demanding riding, but there were trees, mountains, ever more panoramic, beautiful, changing scenery, wickedly fast descents, small villages, and often, a wave and a "You! You! You! Where are you go" from out of nowhere. The people were, for the most part, very surprised and happy to see us. After the deserts of Sudan, there was and greenery. In a word, Ethiopia is beautiful. AS we move southward, the greener has increased dramatically. There are rolling hills, farmland, and green pastures, filled with healthy looking cows, goats and sheep. In the past 2 days, there has been some amazingly excellent climbs and super fast descents (Watch out for cows/goats and people! as you blast by!) on smooth paved roads. The scenery is stunning, the sun is shining, and many riders have commented the past 2 days riding on paved roads have been the most scenic, pleasant and enjoyable on the whole tour."This is what I live for" one appreciative, enthusiastic rider was heard to say. Yes, Ethiopia has had devastating droughts and famine, but the grass is green, the fields are plowed, the people are living well and appear to be hardworking and content. The kids that line the roadside as we whiz by are waving and cheering, amazed at the sight of so many brightly clothed people on fancy bikes going by. No doubt a sight that only happens once a year as the tour D'afrique "roadshow" goes by. As for me, I can't wait for more hills, more superb vistas, and the wonder of what is over the next hill or mountain range... Chris Wille reporting from Bahir Dar, Ethiopia, on the 2008 tour d'afrique.
I’m not sure if I can do the Kilimanjaro marathon or not. Timing is tight but we are trying to make it work.
I will keep you posted.
Also trying to make arrangements to climb Kilimanjaro.

Until next time, Chris..

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

We have arrived in Khartom, Sudan yesterday. This completes the first 'section' of the 2008 tour d'afrique.The section was called "pharaohs' delight". After this section, in spite of riding borrowed bikes and riding in street shoes for 3 days at the start of the tour, and having terrible flat & mechanical problems because of shitty bikes, I am happy and thankful to only be down 1 hour and 13min to the 3rd place racer on the tour. My riding is getting stronger, and I am slowly chipping away at my time deficit... I hope to come in at least in 3rd place by the end of the complete tour...Inshallah (god willing). The first section was approx 2,000k, made up of everything from good paved roads along the Nile river, to very rough, badly rutted gravel and sand roads through the Nubian desert. I have been able to enjoy some small climbs up hills neart our desert camps when the opportunity presesnts itself... In Luxor , Egypt I picked up some weird sort of chest virus, which caused restristricted breathing and a whole lot of coughing, eventually turning into a cold, the first one i have had in about a year and 1/2!! The only benefit is i now have stronger chest and abdomen muscles from all the hacking..Luckily, after 2 weeks it has cleared up...I was up at 6 and went for a 35min run this morning...felt good... Yesterday we had a 20 km time trial race first thing in the morning... I came in 2nd place, a full minute ahead of the next fastest rider! The guy thats leading the tour is a danish ex-pro racer riding a fancy road bike..Unluckily, The next 3 fastest guys are riding mountain bikes,(including me) which simply take more energy to push up to high speeds, and run out of gears at about 50kph, whereas the top racer guy has the gear capacity to go 60+ kph... I am getting some faster gears shipped to Addis Abba, Ethopia, so that i won't be at such a disadvantage as the tour goes on... All in all I am happy, well, going faster with less effort every day, rounding out into form, and loving every minute of the adventure....For some reason they have not posted the daily race results on the tour website, but I understand that has now been corrected, so look for my name near the top of the list on a daily basis.... The weather has been quite cool and windy as compared to last year... Every day is sunny and usually between 20-30 degrees c. However there has been a cool north wind blowing, which makes it seem much cooler. Yesterday our group of 62 riders was escorted through Khartom by police escort, sirens wailing, people cheering and waving from the roadsides. It was quite a sight! So there you have it.. Eat, ride, set up camp, have some soup, then dinner at between 5-6pm, then sleep by 7-8, wake up at 6, breakfast, ride 80k's, lunch at 10-11, ride another 50-80k's, soup at 1-2pm, dinner at 5-6, repeat, usually for 5-6 days until a rest day, when we can relax, do laundry, use the internet, shower, and then go at it again... so far we have covered about 2,000kms...The people in Sudan are very nice and friendly, and much more welcoming than in Egypt, whhich is much more touristy, with 1/2 of all the seniors in Germany taking decadent luxury Nile Cruises...

Ps) oh by the way; With all the news of shootings and political instability in Kenya, the tour organizers are looking in to flying us over Kenya, and having us land at kilimanjaro national airport in tanzania, where we will have an extra 10 days to use up that we would normally have spent riding across Kenya. SO...........there is a possibility some members of the tour will have the time and attempt to climb Kilimanjaro....If this does come to pass, I will likely join them, or possibly climb Mt Meru, or possibly participate in the Kilimanjaro Marathon, an annual event that happens about the time we will be there.. stay tuned, I will let you know what I decide to do.......choices/choices! Say hi/hello/Salam to all from me,Chris Wille in Khartom, Sudan, on the 2008 tour d'afrique..Feel free to share this e mail with everyone... REgards, Chris I know he's busy and all, but please let me know if its possible...