Background; THe 2008 version of the Tour d'afrique paused for 16 days starting March !, 2008.
THis time wouuld have seen riders cross Kenya. Unfortunatly, due to ongoing political turmoil & instability, the tour director's made a decision in mid febuary to cancel the Kenyan section, and have the riders take 16 days off cycling. Some riders affectionatly refered to this time as "spring break".
Her now is a copy of a press release on what I did with this time off, and why I consider myself to be the luckiest man in Africa...
It's amazing how some opportunities present themselves, when a conflict such as the Kenyan political crisis occurs..
Press release; march 10th/2008
IRONMAN 'RESTS' BY RUNNING MARATHON, CLIMBING KILIMANJARO
2008 tour d'afrique rider/racer Chris Wille has just returned from the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, which he reached a scant 6 days after successfully completingthe Kilimanjaro Maraton in Moshi, Sunday, March 2nd.
"I'm the luckiest guy in Africa" said Chris "what an amazing opportunity- running a full marathon in Africa, closely followed by a successful climb to the 'roof' of Africa, the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro, rising over 3 miles above the plains below. At 5,896 meters (19,360 feet), it is well over 1,800 meters (4,ooo feet) higher than any other mountain i have ever climbed, which is significant". He added.
AS for the marathon, the atmophere was great, the course very challenging (hot & humid in town, where the first 14 kim's were run, followed by an unrelenting long hilly climb up to the coffee plantations at 5,000', then back down the steep hill to the finish at Moshi Stadium.).
Over 1,500 people took part in the maraton, 1/2 maraton & 5k run, with 300 going the full marathon distance. Top time in the marathon was 2;15 by a tanzanian, who shattered the course record by 3 minutes. "Personally, I was only running to finish", said Chris. "After cycling & racing over 4,300 kilometers acroos Egypt, Sudan, and Ethiopia (with it's many mountains), I wasn't sur how my legs would hold out, or if I could run. THe last time I seriously ran was at the Royal victoria Marathon last october. Other than that, I did virtually no training as my focus had shifted to the rigors & demands of cycling & racing 12,000 kilometers across the African continent in 4 months".
How did he do? "Great" said Chris "THe legs felt good after about 10kms, and 4;20 is a respectable time for such a hot, hilly, humid course,with no run training. I just feel very fortunate I was able to participate!"
Chris ran the marathon with fellow tda rider Craig George. In order to even get to the marathon start line, the duo endured a 14 hour van dide from Moyale, Ethiopia, to Addis Abbaba, then a lonkg wait at the airport, followed by a 2.5 hour flight over Kenya to Kilimanjaro airport,& a 3/4 hour taxi ride from the airport to Moshi, Tanzania. "We arrived shortly before registration closed on saturday, march !st, then got up very early the next morning and ran the marathon the next morning! (the marathon started at 6;30 am!)."
So what's next on the ajenda for Chris, who is currently in 2nd place overall amonst the racers on the 2008 tda?
"Believe it or not, I'm going to (try)) and relax, and go on a 3 day safari" said the softspoken 4 time ironman. Relax? We'll see....
The riding & racing resumes March !6th, as the group heads across Tanzania....
Friday, March 14, 2008
Monday, March 3, 2008
Ethiopia; cycling paradise, at a price.....
Much to everyone's surprise, cycling in Ethiopia on the 2008 tour dafrique has been breathtakingly beautiful, physically challenging, and, all in all very rewarding.We have cycled for days on smooth, good paved countryside & mountain roads at an elevation of 2000 to 3,100 meters. There are long uphill climbs,rolling hills, and raw, superfast, twisting descents, littered with wrecked vehicles that missed the hairpin turns. On such descents, it is not uncommon for us to reach (controlled) speeds of 80 to 100kph.
Warm,sunny skies welcome us each day, yet at this altitude, nights are cool, which is good for sleeping. All this 'cycling in paradise' does, however,come at a price...There are 75 milion people in Ethiopia, and about 45 million are children under the age of 10!
On the 2008 tour dafrique, in Ethiopia, our intrepid group has been; shouted/yelled at, almost constantly asked for money, stoned, whipped in the butt with sticks, leaving painfull welts,
peed on, fondled, robbed, bullied, taunted, laughed at, and generally made to feel ill at ease. Most every rider has had many unavoidable near misses with cows, donkeys, goats, sheep, & people, who stand in the middle of the road in small towns, seeming totally oblivious to the traffic on the road.They cross the street at will, never looking up to see if it is safe to cross. Stray animals on the road (very common), often mixed in with the people, add significantly to the risk of a crash at any second. All this kaos makes for a very nervous time as we cycle through the many small towns and villages in rural ethiopia. Even at the front of the pack, we racers are like magnets as we traverse the countrysides. The kids come seemingly out of nowhere, race to the roadside as we zipp past, and shout; you! you! you!, Give me money!!! or you! you! you! where are you go? at first its fun, but the novelty quickly wears off after the 700th kid, and you're only an hour into your days ride. The slower riders at the back of the pack have it the worst, as they cannot cycle faster than the kids can run, so the harrasment goes on and on..
Each of us has a big target on us called 'opportunity'. Many of the children & people we pass each day cheer, wave, and are excited and happy to see us. Even the most jaded of us have a soft spot in our hearts, and fond memories of the very cute, super excited young children that greet us excitedly with a big smile and a wave. Ultimatly, those are the memories that will prevail. As one fellow cyclist put it "they (the kids) can't come to the rest of the world, so that's their way of making sure they are noticed when the world comes to them."They are just looking for some aknowledgement, a hello, a wave, a greeting- some connection with you, and through you, to the outside world." Prehaps this rider was correct- she rarely ever got stoned or hassled...
Ethiopa is a cycling paradise. If you go, however, be prepared! all this cycling fun & beauty comes at a price. Those willing to pay the price reap the greatest rewards while cycling in Ethiopia.
Enjoy! Chris Wille on the 2008 tda
Meet the 'Wolf Pack'
With precision and grace, the 'Wolf Pack" approaches their next unsuspecting victim. "Good Morning" they say as they wizz past, in a blurr, pressing ever onward, in search of their next victim, and ultimatly, the front of the pack, the open road, and the finish line.
Respectfully given the name by a 2008 tda expedition rider, the 'Wolf Pack" is made up of 5 strong riders, all competing in the racing category of the 08 tda. Acroos Egypt & Sudan, we always started last in our 62 rider group.Through an efficient pace line riding, we share the work of leading, which keeps the group's overall speed high. It was just a matter of time before we zipped past the other riders each day. The others never knew exactly when we were comming, they just knew we would come.
Cycling within the wolfpack has been fast & fun. We all found our cycling much improved after traversing 2 countries and sharing the workload. Yes it was fun passing the other riders each day. It is also nice to work our way through the day's ride quickly, so we can relax, set up camp, and enjoy our new surroundings as much as possible, before the next day's ride.
Unluckily, one wolfpack member, Janet Alexander, has just left us at the end of the Ethiopian section. Best Wishes, Janet!, nice riding with you.!
The Wolf Pack.
Wolf Pack members; Jos kaal, Bernd Prorok, Chris Wille, Bent Nielsen, Janet Alexander.
Much to everyone's surprise, cycling in Ethiopia on the 2008 tour dafrique has been breathtakingly beautiful, physically challenging, and, all in all very rewarding.We have cycled for days on smooth, good paved countryside & mountain roads at an elevation of 2000 to 3,100 meters. There are long uphill climbs,rolling hills, and raw, superfast, twisting descents, littered with wrecked vehicles that missed the hairpin turns. On such descents, it is not uncommon for us to reach (controlled) speeds of 80 to 100kph.
Warm,sunny skies welcome us each day, yet at this altitude, nights are cool, which is good for sleeping. All this 'cycling in paradise' does, however,come at a price...There are 75 milion people in Ethiopia, and about 45 million are children under the age of 10!
On the 2008 tour dafrique, in Ethiopia, our intrepid group has been; shouted/yelled at, almost constantly asked for money, stoned, whipped in the butt with sticks, leaving painfull welts,
peed on, fondled, robbed, bullied, taunted, laughed at, and generally made to feel ill at ease. Most every rider has had many unavoidable near misses with cows, donkeys, goats, sheep, & people, who stand in the middle of the road in small towns, seeming totally oblivious to the traffic on the road.They cross the street at will, never looking up to see if it is safe to cross. Stray animals on the road (very common), often mixed in with the people, add significantly to the risk of a crash at any second. All this kaos makes for a very nervous time as we cycle through the many small towns and villages in rural ethiopia. Even at the front of the pack, we racers are like magnets as we traverse the countrysides. The kids come seemingly out of nowhere, race to the roadside as we zipp past, and shout; you! you! you!, Give me money!!! or you! you! you! where are you go? at first its fun, but the novelty quickly wears off after the 700th kid, and you're only an hour into your days ride. The slower riders at the back of the pack have it the worst, as they cannot cycle faster than the kids can run, so the harrasment goes on and on..
Each of us has a big target on us called 'opportunity'. Many of the children & people we pass each day cheer, wave, and are excited and happy to see us. Even the most jaded of us have a soft spot in our hearts, and fond memories of the very cute, super excited young children that greet us excitedly with a big smile and a wave. Ultimatly, those are the memories that will prevail. As one fellow cyclist put it "they (the kids) can't come to the rest of the world, so that's their way of making sure they are noticed when the world comes to them."They are just looking for some aknowledgement, a hello, a wave, a greeting- some connection with you, and through you, to the outside world." Prehaps this rider was correct- she rarely ever got stoned or hassled...
Ethiopa is a cycling paradise. If you go, however, be prepared! all this cycling fun & beauty comes at a price. Those willing to pay the price reap the greatest rewards while cycling in Ethiopia.
Enjoy! Chris Wille on the 2008 tda
Meet the 'Wolf Pack'
With precision and grace, the 'Wolf Pack" approaches their next unsuspecting victim. "Good Morning" they say as they wizz past, in a blurr, pressing ever onward, in search of their next victim, and ultimatly, the front of the pack, the open road, and the finish line.
Respectfully given the name by a 2008 tda expedition rider, the 'Wolf Pack" is made up of 5 strong riders, all competing in the racing category of the 08 tda. Acroos Egypt & Sudan, we always started last in our 62 rider group.Through an efficient pace line riding, we share the work of leading, which keeps the group's overall speed high. It was just a matter of time before we zipped past the other riders each day. The others never knew exactly when we were comming, they just knew we would come.
Cycling within the wolfpack has been fast & fun. We all found our cycling much improved after traversing 2 countries and sharing the workload. Yes it was fun passing the other riders each day. It is also nice to work our way through the day's ride quickly, so we can relax, set up camp, and enjoy our new surroundings as much as possible, before the next day's ride.
Unluckily, one wolfpack member, Janet Alexander, has just left us at the end of the Ethiopian section. Best Wishes, Janet!, nice riding with you.!
The Wolf Pack.
Wolf Pack members; Jos kaal, Bernd Prorok, Chris Wille, Bent Nielsen, Janet Alexander.
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Section 2 complete, Canadian racer in 3rd place
February 18. 2008
For the first time in the 6 year history of the Tour d'afrique, a Canadian racer is amongst the top 3 racers. Chris Wille is happy, healthy, and is riding strong. A challenging week long, mountainous route through Ehtiopia has just been completed. Riders are taking a well deserved 2 day rest in Addis Abba, the capital of Ethiopia. "Ethiopia has proven to be amazingly beautiful. Warm temperatures, sunny skys, challenging ascents, wickedly fast, winding descents, smooth roads. It truely is a rider's paradise" Chris said."the people are warm and friendly, often dropping whatever they are doing to cheer and wave as we racer's go whipping by in our compact peloton. At times I feel like i"m a racer in the tour de france," he added.
I'm grateful for the experience, and look forward to each day, each stage, each challenge."He said. a difficult, challenging 1,500km section, named :'the gorge' has just been completed. Chris finshed this section in 3rd place, and is also in 3 rd place overall on the tour. amongst the challenges on this section were the Choke mountains, which saw the riders riding several stages at 2,500 + meters, with a max altitude of 3,100 meters. "you can really feel the altitude, Chris said, especially those of us that live near sea level!" Some riders fared better than others, many loosing their efi (every freaking inch) riding status in this difficult but beautiful section. The biggest highlight for most riders was riding the impressive, daunting "Blue Nile gorge". That day we rode 40kms from our campsite, then down a steep, switchbacking 20km downhill plunge to the bottom of the 3,500 foot gorge, where a 22 km, 3,500' time trial climb started to the top of the rim. "the ride down was sweet and fast", said Chris, who arrived at the bottom in 26 min, with a big grin on his face. " It was time to go to work on the climb up", he added. Chris finished the climb in 1 hr, 59 min, good for 3rd place in the time trial. "everyone who completed that stage was a winner!", top riders were cheering and shouting encouragement to fellow riders as they completed the last part of the steep ascent."I have a great respect and admration to all who took up the challenge' Chris said, "especially Gavin Greig, who, at 67, is the elder statesman and most senior rider on the tour." Stunning views and an awesome sunset caped a most wonderful day in the gorge. 3,200km's done, 9,000 to go. Riders have 2 well deserved days off in addis Abba Ethiopia before riding and racing continue...
Chris Wille on the 2008 tour dafrique.,
For the first time in the 6 year history of the Tour d'afrique, a Canadian racer is amongst the top 3 racers. Chris Wille is happy, healthy, and is riding strong. A challenging week long, mountainous route through Ehtiopia has just been completed. Riders are taking a well deserved 2 day rest in Addis Abba, the capital of Ethiopia. "Ethiopia has proven to be amazingly beautiful. Warm temperatures, sunny skys, challenging ascents, wickedly fast, winding descents, smooth roads. It truely is a rider's paradise" Chris said."the people are warm and friendly, often dropping whatever they are doing to cheer and wave as we racer's go whipping by in our compact peloton. At times I feel like i"m a racer in the tour de france," he added.
I'm grateful for the experience, and look forward to each day, each stage, each challenge."He said. a difficult, challenging 1,500km section, named :'the gorge' has just been completed. Chris finshed this section in 3rd place, and is also in 3 rd place overall on the tour. amongst the challenges on this section were the Choke mountains, which saw the riders riding several stages at 2,500 + meters, with a max altitude of 3,100 meters. "you can really feel the altitude, Chris said, especially those of us that live near sea level!" Some riders fared better than others, many loosing their efi (every freaking inch) riding status in this difficult but beautiful section. The biggest highlight for most riders was riding the impressive, daunting "Blue Nile gorge". That day we rode 40kms from our campsite, then down a steep, switchbacking 20km downhill plunge to the bottom of the 3,500 foot gorge, where a 22 km, 3,500' time trial climb started to the top of the rim. "the ride down was sweet and fast", said Chris, who arrived at the bottom in 26 min, with a big grin on his face. " It was time to go to work on the climb up", he added. Chris finished the climb in 1 hr, 59 min, good for 3rd place in the time trial. "everyone who completed that stage was a winner!", top riders were cheering and shouting encouragement to fellow riders as they completed the last part of the steep ascent."I have a great respect and admration to all who took up the challenge' Chris said, "especially Gavin Greig, who, at 67, is the elder statesman and most senior rider on the tour." Stunning views and an awesome sunset caped a most wonderful day in the gorge. 3,200km's done, 9,000 to go. Riders have 2 well deserved days off in addis Abba Ethiopia before riding and racing continue...
Chris Wille on the 2008 tour dafrique.,
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Feb. 12th, 2008
February 12, 2008
I am happy and well. Our nomadic road show has just arrived in a town called Bahir Dar, Ethiopia.
The first two cycling days in Ethiopia were quite grueling, coming on day 5 &6 of continuous riding. The two days were definitely hardest two days of the tour. They were on very rough gravel roads, with lots of hills. It was also very hot...
On the plus side the scenery was spectacular, with some parts similar to a smaller version of the Grand Canyon. Some of the hills were so steep, and I was so drained of energy, that I simply had to walk up them. That was fine the first day, but the second day we ran into some nasty kids, who threw rocks at us, hitting several riders. Most of the kids and people we encountered were fine. Some kids however were big trouble. The riders are sitting ducks as it is very slow going up the hills, and the kids are waiting, part way up. They shout “you, You, You! Where are you go? Give me money!" and then throw rocks at the riders! On one particularly steep hill on day 2 of riding the Ethiopian hills, I was walking up a hill and was suddenly accompanied by a bunch of kids. I had already been riding for several hours, and was very drained and tired. Unfortunately, I was still some distance from the lunch truck. "WE help you!" the kids said. I said no! and tried to ignore them as I was really hot, tired, and near the end of my physical limits. Suddenly I felt a tug from the back of the bike. Quickly glancing back, I found the kids had opened my rear bag, and had my pump and spare tubes in their thieving little hands, and were about to run off with them, never to be seen again...!!! Realizing I was being robbed, I turned, yelled, and grabbed my gear just at the nick of time before they ran off... At that point the adrenalin kicked in, and I freaked...Yelling and shouting, the kids got scared and ran off. The adrenalin kept me going until lunch.
After that, we still had another 40 k to go, (to where the pavement started again), and then another 14k of riding on pavement to the hotel in Gonder.Somehow I and several other riders made it, but it was by far the toughest day of the tour, and probably one of the toughest cycling days of my life..., the views from the mountaintop hotel of Gonder and the surrounding area were spectacular, and after a long shower and a decent meal, I began to feel normal again.
We were quite a sight as we rolled in...WE were covered in road dust mixed with sweat... Our cycling jerseys were so covered in salt, sweat and dirt that they literally almost stood up by themselves...!! Thomaso.
Day 28 of the tour dÀfrique was behind me. It had been of the hardest cycling days of my life, filled with rough roads, many hills, incessant heat, and rock throwing kids...
Luckily, day 29 was a "rest day" in Gonder, Ethiopia. A chance for riders to relax, do laundry, catch up on their e mails, and see the town, which boats a famous castle and many old churches. Of course, me being me, I had other plans.I had taken a hotel room that night, but it proved to be sensory overload after nearly a month of camping. The beds were so soft I ended up sleeping on the floor...It was the first actual flush toilet I had seen or used in a month and it was weird.. I was up a 6 am, and out the door. My plan was a 2 hour "run".A fellow rider, George Craig from Australia had mentioned that the "Kilimanjaro Marathon" was coming up on March 2nd, and that we may be there in time to participate therefore explaining my need to run, and get my cycling legs used to running again. The locals cast curious glances at me as I ran by. It was Sunday, and many people were off to Sunday mass. There was no set route, just a basic route plan I devised the day before from our mountain top hotel, which featured a lookout where one could see the town of Gonder, and the surrounding countryside. I ran past the famous Gonder Castle, some famous churches, past a busy bus station and market, teeming with people, even in the early morning. A little further along, I came upon 4 groups of teenagers and younger kids playing soccer in the street. . The boys cheered and greeted me warmly as I ran by. Some gave me a high 5, and some passed me the ball so I could play with them. The last groups of soccer players were quite young, about 10-11 years old. They were playing with a makeshift ball, and were very surprised and excited to see a white guy out for a jog! The next thing I knew, one of the kids started jogging with me! WE ran together for about 3/4 of an hour, stopping once to admire the beauty of the rising sun, and the sweeping views of the surrounding farmlands in the valleys below us. When asked, my new found friend's name was "Thomaso". He was my guide, and showed me which streets, narrow alley ways and dirt paths were safe to take. Eventually we ran past his soccer friends. Again, I received a warm reception, and was passed the ball. Thomaso was so proud showing me off to his friends. Many Gonder locals gawked in puzzled amazement as we ran by together. Thomaso was a good runner, matching me stride for stride. At a mall market stall I purchased 2 large bottles of water and some bananas. Thomaso proudly carried my purchases up the step hill back to the mountain top hotel. I invited him to join me for breakfast, where my equally amazed riding mates were wondering where/ how/why I had gone for a "run" the day after a super difficult demanding cycling day. They were equally curious about my new friend. I introduced Thomaso to everyone. WE took some pictures together, placed the Ethiopian equivalent of a Canadian $20 in his hand. His eyes grew wide as saucers, and the he was gone, back to his friends and soccer.
Cycling in Ethiopia.
"Ethiopia", mention the name to someone and they immediately have images of famine, drought, and starving people. As the 3rd country we were traversing on the 2008 tour d’afrique, We riders entered Ethiopia with low expectations. At our first campsite that night, our tour director, Duncan, casually explained that Ethiopia is very mountainous, and that the total elevation gain/loss we would be riding was to be in the order of about 19,000 meters. "So let me get that straight", our knowledgeable, seasoned British rider, John Bell, said, "That’s the equivalent of going up and down Mt Everest twice, from sea level". "Yes!" was Duncan's quick reply. More than a few of the 60 riders jaws dropped, and we wondered what we were in for. Most of our concerns were completely unfounded. Yes there were hills, yes it was hot and demanding riding, but there were trees, mountains, ever more panoramic, beautiful, changing scenery, wickedly fast descents, small villages, and often, a wave and a "You! You! You! Where are you go" from out of nowhere. The people were, for the most part, very surprised and happy to see us. After the deserts of Sudan, there was and greenery. In a word, Ethiopia is beautiful. AS we move southward, the greener has increased dramatically. There are rolling hills, farmland, and green pastures, filled with healthy looking cows, goats and sheep. In the past 2 days, there has been some amazingly excellent climbs and super fast descents (Watch out for cows/goats and people! as you blast by!) on smooth paved roads. The scenery is stunning, the sun is shining, and many riders have commented the past 2 days riding on paved roads have been the most scenic, pleasant and enjoyable on the whole tour."This is what I live for" one appreciative, enthusiastic rider was heard to say. Yes, Ethiopia has had devastating droughts and famine, but the grass is green, the fields are plowed, the people are living well and appear to be hardworking and content. The kids that line the roadside as we whiz by are waving and cheering, amazed at the sight of so many brightly clothed people on fancy bikes going by. No doubt a sight that only happens once a year as the tour D'afrique "roadshow" goes by. As for me, I can't wait for more hills, more superb vistas, and the wonder of what is over the next hill or mountain range... Chris Wille reporting from Bahir Dar, Ethiopia, on the 2008 tour d'afrique.
I’m not sure if I can do the Kilimanjaro marathon or not. Timing is tight but we are trying to make it work.
I will keep you posted.
Also trying to make arrangements to climb Kilimanjaro.
Until next time, Chris..
I am happy and well. Our nomadic road show has just arrived in a town called Bahir Dar, Ethiopia.
The first two cycling days in Ethiopia were quite grueling, coming on day 5 &6 of continuous riding. The two days were definitely hardest two days of the tour. They were on very rough gravel roads, with lots of hills. It was also very hot...
On the plus side the scenery was spectacular, with some parts similar to a smaller version of the Grand Canyon. Some of the hills were so steep, and I was so drained of energy, that I simply had to walk up them. That was fine the first day, but the second day we ran into some nasty kids, who threw rocks at us, hitting several riders. Most of the kids and people we encountered were fine. Some kids however were big trouble. The riders are sitting ducks as it is very slow going up the hills, and the kids are waiting, part way up. They shout “you, You, You! Where are you go? Give me money!" and then throw rocks at the riders! On one particularly steep hill on day 2 of riding the Ethiopian hills, I was walking up a hill and was suddenly accompanied by a bunch of kids. I had already been riding for several hours, and was very drained and tired. Unfortunately, I was still some distance from the lunch truck. "WE help you!" the kids said. I said no! and tried to ignore them as I was really hot, tired, and near the end of my physical limits. Suddenly I felt a tug from the back of the bike. Quickly glancing back, I found the kids had opened my rear bag, and had my pump and spare tubes in their thieving little hands, and were about to run off with them, never to be seen again...!!! Realizing I was being robbed, I turned, yelled, and grabbed my gear just at the nick of time before they ran off... At that point the adrenalin kicked in, and I freaked...Yelling and shouting, the kids got scared and ran off. The adrenalin kept me going until lunch.
After that, we still had another 40 k to go, (to where the pavement started again), and then another 14k of riding on pavement to the hotel in Gonder.Somehow I and several other riders made it, but it was by far the toughest day of the tour, and probably one of the toughest cycling days of my life..., the views from the mountaintop hotel of Gonder and the surrounding area were spectacular, and after a long shower and a decent meal, I began to feel normal again.
We were quite a sight as we rolled in...WE were covered in road dust mixed with sweat... Our cycling jerseys were so covered in salt, sweat and dirt that they literally almost stood up by themselves...!! Thomaso.
Day 28 of the tour dÀfrique was behind me. It had been of the hardest cycling days of my life, filled with rough roads, many hills, incessant heat, and rock throwing kids...
Luckily, day 29 was a "rest day" in Gonder, Ethiopia. A chance for riders to relax, do laundry, catch up on their e mails, and see the town, which boats a famous castle and many old churches. Of course, me being me, I had other plans.I had taken a hotel room that night, but it proved to be sensory overload after nearly a month of camping. The beds were so soft I ended up sleeping on the floor...It was the first actual flush toilet I had seen or used in a month and it was weird.. I was up a 6 am, and out the door. My plan was a 2 hour "run".A fellow rider, George Craig from Australia had mentioned that the "Kilimanjaro Marathon" was coming up on March 2nd, and that we may be there in time to participate therefore explaining my need to run, and get my cycling legs used to running again. The locals cast curious glances at me as I ran by. It was Sunday, and many people were off to Sunday mass. There was no set route, just a basic route plan I devised the day before from our mountain top hotel, which featured a lookout where one could see the town of Gonder, and the surrounding countryside. I ran past the famous Gonder Castle, some famous churches, past a busy bus station and market, teeming with people, even in the early morning. A little further along, I came upon 4 groups of teenagers and younger kids playing soccer in the street. . The boys cheered and greeted me warmly as I ran by. Some gave me a high 5, and some passed me the ball so I could play with them. The last groups of soccer players were quite young, about 10-11 years old. They were playing with a makeshift ball, and were very surprised and excited to see a white guy out for a jog! The next thing I knew, one of the kids started jogging with me! WE ran together for about 3/4 of an hour, stopping once to admire the beauty of the rising sun, and the sweeping views of the surrounding farmlands in the valleys below us. When asked, my new found friend's name was "Thomaso". He was my guide, and showed me which streets, narrow alley ways and dirt paths were safe to take. Eventually we ran past his soccer friends. Again, I received a warm reception, and was passed the ball. Thomaso was so proud showing me off to his friends. Many Gonder locals gawked in puzzled amazement as we ran by together. Thomaso was a good runner, matching me stride for stride. At a mall market stall I purchased 2 large bottles of water and some bananas. Thomaso proudly carried my purchases up the step hill back to the mountain top hotel. I invited him to join me for breakfast, where my equally amazed riding mates were wondering where/ how/why I had gone for a "run" the day after a super difficult demanding cycling day. They were equally curious about my new friend. I introduced Thomaso to everyone. WE took some pictures together, placed the Ethiopian equivalent of a Canadian $20 in his hand. His eyes grew wide as saucers, and the he was gone, back to his friends and soccer.
Cycling in Ethiopia.
"Ethiopia", mention the name to someone and they immediately have images of famine, drought, and starving people. As the 3rd country we were traversing on the 2008 tour d’afrique, We riders entered Ethiopia with low expectations. At our first campsite that night, our tour director, Duncan, casually explained that Ethiopia is very mountainous, and that the total elevation gain/loss we would be riding was to be in the order of about 19,000 meters. "So let me get that straight", our knowledgeable, seasoned British rider, John Bell, said, "That’s the equivalent of going up and down Mt Everest twice, from sea level". "Yes!" was Duncan's quick reply. More than a few of the 60 riders jaws dropped, and we wondered what we were in for. Most of our concerns were completely unfounded. Yes there were hills, yes it was hot and demanding riding, but there were trees, mountains, ever more panoramic, beautiful, changing scenery, wickedly fast descents, small villages, and often, a wave and a "You! You! You! Where are you go" from out of nowhere. The people were, for the most part, very surprised and happy to see us. After the deserts of Sudan, there was and greenery. In a word, Ethiopia is beautiful. AS we move southward, the greener has increased dramatically. There are rolling hills, farmland, and green pastures, filled with healthy looking cows, goats and sheep. In the past 2 days, there has been some amazingly excellent climbs and super fast descents (Watch out for cows/goats and people! as you blast by!) on smooth paved roads. The scenery is stunning, the sun is shining, and many riders have commented the past 2 days riding on paved roads have been the most scenic, pleasant and enjoyable on the whole tour."This is what I live for" one appreciative, enthusiastic rider was heard to say. Yes, Ethiopia has had devastating droughts and famine, but the grass is green, the fields are plowed, the people are living well and appear to be hardworking and content. The kids that line the roadside as we whiz by are waving and cheering, amazed at the sight of so many brightly clothed people on fancy bikes going by. No doubt a sight that only happens once a year as the tour D'afrique "roadshow" goes by. As for me, I can't wait for more hills, more superb vistas, and the wonder of what is over the next hill or mountain range... Chris Wille reporting from Bahir Dar, Ethiopia, on the 2008 tour d'afrique.
I’m not sure if I can do the Kilimanjaro marathon or not. Timing is tight but we are trying to make it work.
I will keep you posted.
Also trying to make arrangements to climb Kilimanjaro.
Until next time, Chris..
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
We have arrived in Khartom, Sudan yesterday. This completes the first 'section' of the 2008 tour d'afrique.The section was called "pharaohs' delight". After this section, in spite of riding borrowed bikes and riding in street shoes for 3 days at the start of the tour, and having terrible flat & mechanical problems because of shitty bikes, I am happy and thankful to only be down 1 hour and 13min to the 3rd place racer on the tour. My riding is getting stronger, and I am slowly chipping away at my time deficit... I hope to come in at least in 3rd place by the end of the complete tour...Inshallah (god willing). The first section was approx 2,000k, made up of everything from good paved roads along the Nile river, to very rough, badly rutted gravel and sand roads through the Nubian desert. I have been able to enjoy some small climbs up hills neart our desert camps when the opportunity presesnts itself... In Luxor , Egypt I picked up some weird sort of chest virus, which caused restristricted breathing and a whole lot of coughing, eventually turning into a cold, the first one i have had in about a year and 1/2!! The only benefit is i now have stronger chest and abdomen muscles from all the hacking..Luckily, after 2 weeks it has cleared up...I was up at 6 and went for a 35min run this morning...felt good... Yesterday we had a 20 km time trial race first thing in the morning... I came in 2nd place, a full minute ahead of the next fastest rider! The guy thats leading the tour is a danish ex-pro racer riding a fancy road bike..Unluckily, The next 3 fastest guys are riding mountain bikes,(including me) which simply take more energy to push up to high speeds, and run out of gears at about 50kph, whereas the top racer guy has the gear capacity to go 60+ kph... I am getting some faster gears shipped to Addis Abba, Ethopia, so that i won't be at such a disadvantage as the tour goes on... All in all I am happy, well, going faster with less effort every day, rounding out into form, and loving every minute of the adventure....For some reason they have not posted the daily race results on the tour website, but I understand that has now been corrected, so look for my name near the top of the list on a daily basis.... The weather has been quite cool and windy as compared to last year... Every day is sunny and usually between 20-30 degrees c. However there has been a cool north wind blowing, which makes it seem much cooler. Yesterday our group of 62 riders was escorted through Khartom by police escort, sirens wailing, people cheering and waving from the roadsides. It was quite a sight! So there you have it.. Eat, ride, set up camp, have some soup, then dinner at between 5-6pm, then sleep by 7-8, wake up at 6, breakfast, ride 80k's, lunch at 10-11, ride another 50-80k's, soup at 1-2pm, dinner at 5-6, repeat, usually for 5-6 days until a rest day, when we can relax, do laundry, use the internet, shower, and then go at it again... so far we have covered about 2,000kms...The people in Sudan are very nice and friendly, and much more welcoming than in Egypt, whhich is much more touristy, with 1/2 of all the seniors in Germany taking decadent luxury Nile Cruises...
Ps) oh by the way; With all the news of shootings and political instability in Kenya, the tour organizers are looking in to flying us over Kenya, and having us land at kilimanjaro national airport in tanzania, where we will have an extra 10 days to use up that we would normally have spent riding across Kenya. SO...........there is a possibility some members of the tour will have the time and attempt to climb Kilimanjaro....If this does come to pass, I will likely join them, or possibly climb Mt Meru, or possibly participate in the Kilimanjaro Marathon, an annual event that happens about the time we will be there.. stay tuned, I will let you know what I decide to do.......choices/choices! Say hi/hello/Salam to all from me,Chris Wille in Khartom, Sudan, on the 2008 tour d'afrique..Feel free to share this e mail with everyone... REgards, Chris I know he's busy and all, but please let me know if its possible...
Ps) oh by the way; With all the news of shootings and political instability in Kenya, the tour organizers are looking in to flying us over Kenya, and having us land at kilimanjaro national airport in tanzania, where we will have an extra 10 days to use up that we would normally have spent riding across Kenya. SO...........there is a possibility some members of the tour will have the time and attempt to climb Kilimanjaro....If this does come to pass, I will likely join them, or possibly climb Mt Meru, or possibly participate in the Kilimanjaro Marathon, an annual event that happens about the time we will be there.. stay tuned, I will let you know what I decide to do.......choices/choices! Say hi/hello/Salam to all from me,Chris Wille in Khartom, Sudan, on the 2008 tour d'afrique..Feel free to share this e mail with everyone... REgards, Chris I know he's busy and all, but please let me know if its possible...
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