Monday, April 14, 2008

175 kilometers in someone else's shoes!

Background;
games and pranks are part of the 2008 TDA tour.
from tent door zippers being mysteriously zip tied shut in the night, to mysterious panties turning up in certain peoples bags, pranks are part of the tour.
Was I a victim of chance or willful "dirty tricks"? Perhaps i will never know...

The weather was sunny and warm, the road smooth, mildly undulating, welcoming. All in all, a perfect day for cycling and racing Zambia. We riders quickly consumed our breakfasts, packed up our tents,& made final preparations for the days race stage & ride.

My bike was set. I was feeling strong, confident on having a good performance on the day. All that was left to do was to trade my camp shoes for cycling shoes & head for the start line with my fellow racers. I reached for my cycling shoes, which I always left in the truck. Much to my dismay, there was only one shoe, where there had been 2 the day before.

A frantic search of the truck proved fruitless and yielded no second shoe. I was desperate! My fellow racers and expedition riders were by then all on the road, beginning the day's 175kilometer ride. Meanwhile, I was stuck at the truck with only one shoe! In the quick, efficient manner that is his nature, Duncan, the TDA tour leader, magically produced a pair of cycling shoes that looked like they just might work. they were a couple of sizes too small, but just fit when put on with no socks.

In a flash, I was set, on the road, & pedalling in the fastest, most efficient manner possible. Like a caged animal set loose, it felt great to be free, out on the road again. Before long i started passing fellow tour riders. When one starts from the very back, the motivation to do well is very strong. I used this motivation to keep my spirits and speed up throughout the day. No problem- i thought. Even though I was not part of the energy saving peloton, I knew I could perform well.

The days ride was like an individual 175 kilometer time trial. This in turn , was similar to the cycling stage of an iron man triathlon, something I was quite familiar with. Much to my surprise & pleasure, the cycling shoes worked. at the conclusion of the day's stage, I had only lost 4 minutes to the top 2 riders, and finished in a solid 3rd place. Not bad for a 175 kilometer in someone Else's' shoes!

As for the missing shoe... it turned up later, jammed behind some peoples red boxes on the bottom shelf. Weather it ended up there by accident or by the the hand of a fellow rider/racer trying to raise havoc or get me off my game is unclear.. either scenario is possible..

Despite my initial problems, it was fun and challenging riding and racing in someone Else's shoes!
The adrenaline was coursing through my veins.
Another day in the life of the 2008 TDA.

Chris Wille in Livingstone, Victoria Falls , Zambia.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Africa-'All other places are tame'

The following was written in 1910 by Mary Gaunt.
I found it still quite pertinent today, and copied it down to share with my blog readers. It is framed and sits in a prominent spot at the restaurant/bar at Chitimba Beach Lodge, Malawi.



Africa- 'all other places are tame'


The fascination Africa has always held for those who have visited her shores has hitherto been the fascination of Mistress, never of the wife.

She held out no lure,for she was no courtesan. A man came to her in his eager youth, asking, praying that she would give him that which should make life good, and she trusted and opened her arms.

What she had to give she gave freely, generously, and there was no stint, no lack. And he took. Her charm he counted on as a matter of course, her tenderness was hid due, her passion his pleasure, but the fascination he barely admitted could not keep him.

Though she had given all, she had no rights and, when other desires called he left her, left her with words of pity that were an injury, of regret that were an insult.

But all this is changing.

Africa holds. The man who has known Africa longs for her.

In the sordid city street she remembers the might and loneliness of her forests, by the rippling brook he remembers the wide rivers rushing tumultuous from the lakes, in the night when on the roof the rain's splashing drearily he remembers the mellow tropical nights, the sky of velvet far away, the stars like points of gold, the warm moonlight that with its deeper shadows made a fairer world.

Even the languor and the heat he longs for, the white surf on yellow sand of the beaches, the thick jungle growth gently matted, rankly luxuriant, pulsating with the irrepressible life of the tropics.

All other places.... are tame

Mary Gaunt,

Sierra Leone, 1910

Back Online

Hey loyal readers- I'm still alive, and racing fine as the 2008 Tour Dafrique enters it's final month.

Since my last post we have cycled across Tanzania, on rough roads and past villages where they rarely see a white person, let alone 62 crazy people on bicycles. Each community we passed through received a welcome economic benefit as cycling, especially in these humid conditions creates a powerful, insatiable appetite and thirst. The scenery has been very lush, green and beautiful. We followed the Masai steppe across Tanzania, which proved to be quite hilly. Once we reached the Town of Iringa (at Easter) we traded our off road knobby tires for smooth, fast road tires. Our behinds enjoyed the smoother roads. We seemed to blast through Tanzania quite quickly. The last days ride in that country was stunning . It featured smooth, fast roads, hills ,quick descents, banana, coffee and tea plantations, and a view of the massive lake Malawi in the distance.

Malawi was very hot and humid. We enjoyed a day off at Chatimba beach, and swam in the warm lake waters. Following that, it was back on the road, where we faced 2 days of drenching rains, which cooled us as we climbed the steep road up the escarpment and out of the rift valley.
We came across actual logging operations in the highlands of Malawi. Daily the road was challenging, twisting, turning and winding its way across the land. In Malawi we passed many corn and tobacco plantations. The people were welcoming and super friendly. In Lilongwe the TDA held the second of four bicycle donations, with over 50 bikes being donated to various health care organizations. Hundreds of people die each day from the ravages of Malaria and aids, so the bikes are definitely essential in helping the health care workers get out in the field and do their work. Thanks very much to all who have donated to my bike donation fund. To those that still wish to donate, please contact the TDA office in Toronto.

We were through/across Malawi in 8 days. Currently, we are in Lusaka, Zambia. Riders have gone into sensory overload as , for the first time since Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, we find ourselves in a modern city, with modern grocery stores and conveniences. We wasted little time at eating ethic available, and marvelled at the selections on the grocery store shelves. After being content with warm coke and a few stale biscuits at tiny village stores, this was truly overload!

The pace /mileage of our rides is starting to ratchet upward. last week we had a 197 kilometer day over rough, hilly roads. it was part of a 5 day stretch where we rode over 700 kilometers, all over hilly , hot roads, which made for some demanding riding. Tomorrow we begin a 3 day ride to Livingstone and the world famous Victoria falls, where we will have 2 days off. The 3 days to get there , however, are all reputed to be about 165 kilometres. After that, we enter Botswana, land of flat roads and elephants. There our mileage will increase to 6 days of almost 200 kilometers each. The tour is 3/4ths done. One more month and it's all over. We arrive in Capetown on may 10th. Many riders have bittersweet feelings about this, and prefer to simply enjoy each day and each ride.

On the racing front, the top 3 racers have been very consistent since Egypt.
Joss Kaal, ex semi-pro danish racer, and Bernd Prorok, nationally ranked Austrian mountain bike racer are 1-2 most days, with myself usually taking 3 spot. We are some 25-30 hours ahead of the 4 place racer. On rare occasions Bernd has taken a stage win. I have been fortunate enough to take 2 wins. For the most part, however, Jos and bernd are much better riders than myself, and much younger as well. I just do my best and ride as well as i can each day. Every day is a new adventure on the 2008 tour dafrique!

I will try to update my blog more often, but racing and refueling take top priority on the world's toughest bike race..

Cheers to all from Lusaka, Zambia.

Friday, March 14, 2008

The luckiest man in Africa

Background; THe 2008 version of the Tour d'afrique paused for 16 days starting March !, 2008.

THis time wouuld have seen riders cross Kenya. Unfortunatly, due to ongoing political turmoil & instability, the tour director's made a decision in mid febuary to cancel the Kenyan section, and have the riders take 16 days off cycling. Some riders affectionatly refered to this time as "spring break".

Her now is a copy of a press release on what I did with this time off, and why I consider myself to be the luckiest man in Africa...

It's amazing how some opportunities present themselves, when a conflict such as the Kenyan political crisis occurs..


Press release; march 10th/2008

IRONMAN 'RESTS' BY RUNNING MARATHON, CLIMBING KILIMANJARO

2008 tour d'afrique rider/racer Chris Wille has just returned from the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, which he reached a scant 6 days after successfully completingthe Kilimanjaro Maraton in Moshi, Sunday, March 2nd.

"I'm the luckiest guy in Africa" said Chris "what an amazing opportunity- running a full marathon in Africa, closely followed by a successful climb to the 'roof' of Africa, the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro, rising over 3 miles above the plains below. At 5,896 meters (19,360 feet), it is well over 1,800 meters (4,ooo feet) higher than any other mountain i have ever climbed, which is significant". He added.

AS for the marathon, the atmophere was great, the course very challenging (hot & humid in town, where the first 14 kim's were run, followed by an unrelenting long hilly climb up to the coffee plantations at 5,000', then back down the steep hill to the finish at Moshi Stadium.).

Over 1,500 people took part in the maraton, 1/2 maraton & 5k run, with 300 going the full marathon distance. Top time in the marathon was 2;15 by a tanzanian, who shattered the course record by 3 minutes. "Personally, I was only running to finish", said Chris. "After cycling & racing over 4,300 kilometers acroos Egypt, Sudan, and Ethiopia (with it's many mountains), I wasn't sur how my legs would hold out, or if I could run. THe last time I seriously ran was at the Royal victoria Marathon last october. Other than that, I did virtually no training as my focus had shifted to the rigors & demands of cycling & racing 12,000 kilometers across the African continent in 4 months".

How did he do? "Great" said Chris "THe legs felt good after about 10kms, and 4;20 is a respectable time for such a hot, hilly, humid course,with no run training. I just feel very fortunate I was able to participate!"

Chris ran the marathon with fellow tda rider Craig George. In order to even get to the marathon start line, the duo endured a 14 hour van dide from Moyale, Ethiopia, to Addis Abbaba, then a lonkg wait at the airport, followed by a 2.5 hour flight over Kenya to Kilimanjaro airport,& a 3/4 hour taxi ride from the airport to Moshi, Tanzania. "We arrived shortly before registration closed on saturday, march !st, then got up very early the next morning and ran the marathon the next morning! (the marathon started at 6;30 am!)."

So what's next on the ajenda for Chris, who is currently in 2nd place overall amonst the racers on the 2008 tda?

"Believe it or not, I'm going to (try)) and relax, and go on a 3 day safari" said the softspoken 4 time ironman. Relax? We'll see....

The riding & racing resumes March !6th, as the group heads across Tanzania....

Monday, March 3, 2008

Ethiopia; cycling paradise, at a price.....

Much to everyone's surprise, cycling in Ethiopia on the 2008 tour dafrique has been breathtakingly beautiful, physically challenging, and, all in all very rewarding.We have cycled for days on smooth, good paved countryside & mountain roads at an elevation of 2000 to 3,100 meters. There are long uphill climbs,rolling hills, and raw, superfast, twisting descents, littered with wrecked vehicles that missed the hairpin turns. On such descents, it is not uncommon for us to reach (controlled) speeds of 80 to 100kph.

Warm,sunny skies welcome us each day, yet at this altitude, nights are cool, which is good for sleeping. All this 'cycling in paradise' does, however,come at a price...There are 75 milion people in Ethiopia, and about 45 million are children under the age of 10!
On the 2008 tour dafrique, in Ethiopia, our intrepid group has been; shouted/yelled at, almost constantly asked for money, stoned, whipped in the butt with sticks, leaving painfull welts,
peed on, fondled, robbed, bullied, taunted, laughed at, and generally made to feel ill at ease. Most every rider has had many unavoidable near misses with cows, donkeys, goats, sheep, & people, who stand in the middle of the road in small towns, seeming totally oblivious to the traffic on the road.They cross the street at will, never looking up to see if it is safe to cross. Stray animals on the road (very common), often mixed in with the people, add significantly to the risk of a crash at any second. All this kaos makes for a very nervous time as we cycle through the many small towns and villages in rural ethiopia. Even at the front of the pack, we racers are like magnets as we traverse the countrysides. The kids come seemingly out of nowhere, race to the roadside as we zipp past, and shout; you! you! you!, Give me money!!! or you! you! you! where are you go? at first its fun, but the novelty quickly wears off after the 700th kid, and you're only an hour into your days ride. The slower riders at the back of the pack have it the worst, as they cannot cycle faster than the kids can run, so the harrasment goes on and on..

Each of us has a big target on us called 'opportunity'. Many of the children & people we pass each day cheer, wave, and are excited and happy to see us. Even the most jaded of us have a soft spot in our hearts, and fond memories of the very cute, super excited young children that greet us excitedly with a big smile and a wave. Ultimatly, those are the memories that will prevail. As one fellow cyclist put it "they (the kids) can't come to the rest of the world, so that's their way of making sure they are noticed when the world comes to them."They are just looking for some aknowledgement, a hello, a wave, a greeting- some connection with you, and through you, to the outside world." Prehaps this rider was correct- she rarely ever got stoned or hassled...

Ethiopa is a cycling paradise. If you go, however, be prepared! all this cycling fun & beauty comes at a price. Those willing to pay the price reap the greatest rewards while cycling in Ethiopia.
Enjoy! Chris Wille on the 2008 tda


Meet the 'Wolf Pack'

With precision and grace, the 'Wolf Pack" approaches their next unsuspecting victim. "Good Morning" they say as they wizz past, in a blurr, pressing ever onward, in search of their next victim, and ultimatly, the front of the pack, the open road, and the finish line.

Respectfully given the name by a 2008 tda expedition rider, the 'Wolf Pack" is made up of 5 strong riders, all competing in the racing category of the 08 tda. Acroos Egypt & Sudan, we always started last in our 62 rider group.Through an efficient pace line riding, we share the work of leading, which keeps the group's overall speed high. It was just a matter of time before we zipped past the other riders each day. The others never knew exactly when we were comming, they just knew we would come.

Cycling within the wolfpack has been fast & fun. We all found our cycling much improved after traversing 2 countries and sharing the workload. Yes it was fun passing the other riders each day. It is also nice to work our way through the day's ride quickly, so we can relax, set up camp, and enjoy our new surroundings as much as possible, before the next day's ride.

Unluckily, one wolfpack member, Janet Alexander, has just left us at the end of the Ethiopian section. Best Wishes, Janet!, nice riding with you.!

The Wolf Pack.

Wolf Pack members; Jos kaal, Bernd Prorok, Chris Wille, Bent Nielsen, Janet Alexander.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Section 2 complete, Canadian racer in 3rd place

February 18. 2008

For the first time in the 6 year history of the Tour d'afrique, a Canadian racer is amongst the top 3 racers. Chris Wille is happy, healthy, and is riding strong. A challenging week long, mountainous route through Ehtiopia has just been completed. Riders are taking a well deserved 2 day rest in Addis Abba, the capital of Ethiopia. "Ethiopia has proven to be amazingly beautiful. Warm temperatures, sunny skys, challenging ascents, wickedly fast, winding descents, smooth roads. It truely is a rider's paradise" Chris said."the people are warm and friendly, often dropping whatever they are doing to cheer and wave as we racer's go whipping by in our compact peloton. At times I feel like i"m a racer in the tour de france," he added.
I'm grateful for the experience, and look forward to each day, each stage, each challenge."He said. a difficult, challenging 1,500km section, named :'the gorge' has just been completed. Chris finshed this section in 3rd place, and is also in 3 rd place overall on the tour. amongst the challenges on this section were the Choke mountains, which saw the riders riding several stages at 2,500 + meters, with a max altitude of 3,100 meters. "you can really feel the altitude, Chris said, especially those of us that live near sea level!" Some riders fared better than others, many loosing their efi (every freaking inch) riding status in this difficult but beautiful section. The biggest highlight for most riders was riding the impressive, daunting "Blue Nile gorge". That day we rode 40kms from our campsite, then down a steep, switchbacking 20km downhill plunge to the bottom of the 3,500 foot gorge, where a 22 km, 3,500' time trial climb started to the top of the rim. "the ride down was sweet and fast", said Chris, who arrived at the bottom in 26 min, with a big grin on his face. " It was time to go to work on the climb up", he added. Chris finished the climb in 1 hr, 59 min, good for 3rd place in the time trial. "everyone who completed that stage was a winner!", top riders were cheering and shouting encouragement to fellow riders as they completed the last part of the steep ascent."I have a great respect and admration to all who took up the challenge' Chris said, "especially Gavin Greig, who, at 67, is the elder statesman and most senior rider on the tour." Stunning views and an awesome sunset caped a most wonderful day in the gorge. 3,200km's done, 9,000 to go. Riders have 2 well deserved days off in addis Abba Ethiopia before riding and racing continue...

Chris Wille on the 2008 tour dafrique.,

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Feb. 12th, 2008

February 12, 2008
I am happy and well. Our nomadic road show has just arrived in a town called Bahir Dar, Ethiopia.
The first two cycling days in Ethiopia were quite grueling, coming on day 5 &6 of continuous riding. The two days were definitely hardest two days of the tour. They were on very rough gravel roads, with lots of hills. It was also very hot...
On the plus side the scenery was spectacular, with some parts similar to a smaller version of the Grand Canyon. Some of the hills were so steep, and I was so drained of energy, that I simply had to walk up them. That was fine the first day, but the second day we ran into some nasty kids, who threw rocks at us, hitting several riders. Most of the kids and people we encountered were fine. Some kids however were big trouble. The riders are sitting ducks as it is very slow going up the hills, and the kids are waiting, part way up. They shout “you, You, You! Where are you go? Give me money!" and then throw rocks at the riders! On one particularly steep hill on day 2 of riding the Ethiopian hills, I was walking up a hill and was suddenly accompanied by a bunch of kids. I had already been riding for several hours, and was very drained and tired. Unfortunately, I was still some distance from the lunch truck. "WE help you!" the kids said. I said no! and tried to ignore them as I was really hot, tired, and near the end of my physical limits. Suddenly I felt a tug from the back of the bike. Quickly glancing back, I found the kids had opened my rear bag, and had my pump and spare tubes in their thieving little hands, and were about to run off with them, never to be seen again...!!! Realizing I was being robbed, I turned, yelled, and grabbed my gear just at the nick of time before they ran off... At that point the adrenalin kicked in, and I freaked...Yelling and shouting, the kids got scared and ran off. The adrenalin kept me going until lunch.
After that, we still had another 40 k to go, (to where the pavement started again), and then another 14k of riding on pavement to the hotel in Gonder.Somehow I and several other riders made it, but it was by far the toughest day of the tour, and probably one of the toughest cycling days of my life..., the views from the mountaintop hotel of Gonder and the surrounding area were spectacular, and after a long shower and a decent meal, I began to feel normal again.
We were quite a sight as we rolled in...WE were covered in road dust mixed with sweat... Our cycling jerseys were so covered in salt, sweat and dirt that they literally almost stood up by themselves...!! Thomaso.

Day 28 of the tour dÀfrique was behind me. It had been of the hardest cycling days of my life, filled with rough roads, many hills, incessant heat, and rock throwing kids...
Luckily, day 29 was a "rest day" in Gonder, Ethiopia. A chance for riders to relax, do laundry, catch up on their e mails, and see the town, which boats a famous castle and many old churches. Of course, me being me, I had other plans.I had taken a hotel room that night, but it proved to be sensory overload after nearly a month of camping. The beds were so soft I ended up sleeping on the floor...It was the first actual flush toilet I had seen or used in a month and it was weird.. I was up a 6 am, and out the door. My plan was a 2 hour "run".A fellow rider, George Craig from Australia had mentioned that the "Kilimanjaro Marathon" was coming up on March 2nd, and that we may be there in time to participate therefore explaining my need to run, and get my cycling legs used to running again. The locals cast curious glances at me as I ran by. It was Sunday, and many people were off to Sunday mass. There was no set route, just a basic route plan I devised the day before from our mountain top hotel, which featured a lookout where one could see the town of Gonder, and the surrounding countryside. I ran past the famous Gonder Castle, some famous churches, past a busy bus station and market, teeming with people, even in the early morning. A little further along, I came upon 4 groups of teenagers and younger kids playing soccer in the street. . The boys cheered and greeted me warmly as I ran by. Some gave me a high 5, and some passed me the ball so I could play with them. The last groups of soccer players were quite young, about 10-11 years old. They were playing with a makeshift ball, and were very surprised and excited to see a white guy out for a jog! The next thing I knew, one of the kids started jogging with me! WE ran together for about 3/4 of an hour, stopping once to admire the beauty of the rising sun, and the sweeping views of the surrounding farmlands in the valleys below us. When asked, my new found friend's name was "Thomaso". He was my guide, and showed me which streets, narrow alley ways and dirt paths were safe to take. Eventually we ran past his soccer friends. Again, I received a warm reception, and was passed the ball. Thomaso was so proud showing me off to his friends. Many Gonder locals gawked in puzzled amazement as we ran by together. Thomaso was a good runner, matching me stride for stride. At a mall market stall I purchased 2 large bottles of water and some bananas. Thomaso proudly carried my purchases up the step hill back to the mountain top hotel. I invited him to join me for breakfast, where my equally amazed riding mates were wondering where/ how/why I had gone for a "run" the day after a super difficult demanding cycling day. They were equally curious about my new friend. I introduced Thomaso to everyone. WE took some pictures together, placed the Ethiopian equivalent of a Canadian $20 in his hand. His eyes grew wide as saucers, and the he was gone, back to his friends and soccer.

Cycling in Ethiopia.

"Ethiopia", mention the name to someone and they immediately have images of famine, drought, and starving people. As the 3rd country we were traversing on the 2008 tour d’afrique, We riders entered Ethiopia with low expectations. At our first campsite that night, our tour director, Duncan, casually explained that Ethiopia is very mountainous, and that the total elevation gain/loss we would be riding was to be in the order of about 19,000 meters. "So let me get that straight", our knowledgeable, seasoned British rider, John Bell, said, "That’s the equivalent of going up and down Mt Everest twice, from sea level". "Yes!" was Duncan's quick reply. More than a few of the 60 riders jaws dropped, and we wondered what we were in for. Most of our concerns were completely unfounded. Yes there were hills, yes it was hot and demanding riding, but there were trees, mountains, ever more panoramic, beautiful, changing scenery, wickedly fast descents, small villages, and often, a wave and a "You! You! You! Where are you go" from out of nowhere. The people were, for the most part, very surprised and happy to see us. After the deserts of Sudan, there was and greenery. In a word, Ethiopia is beautiful. AS we move southward, the greener has increased dramatically. There are rolling hills, farmland, and green pastures, filled with healthy looking cows, goats and sheep. In the past 2 days, there has been some amazingly excellent climbs and super fast descents (Watch out for cows/goats and people! as you blast by!) on smooth paved roads. The scenery is stunning, the sun is shining, and many riders have commented the past 2 days riding on paved roads have been the most scenic, pleasant and enjoyable on the whole tour."This is what I live for" one appreciative, enthusiastic rider was heard to say. Yes, Ethiopia has had devastating droughts and famine, but the grass is green, the fields are plowed, the people are living well and appear to be hardworking and content. The kids that line the roadside as we whiz by are waving and cheering, amazed at the sight of so many brightly clothed people on fancy bikes going by. No doubt a sight that only happens once a year as the tour D'afrique "roadshow" goes by. As for me, I can't wait for more hills, more superb vistas, and the wonder of what is over the next hill or mountain range... Chris Wille reporting from Bahir Dar, Ethiopia, on the 2008 tour d'afrique.
I’m not sure if I can do the Kilimanjaro marathon or not. Timing is tight but we are trying to make it work.
I will keep you posted.
Also trying to make arrangements to climb Kilimanjaro.

Until next time, Chris..